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You are here: Home / 2009 / Archives for July 2009

Archives for July 2009

TP Memories

July 22, 2009 By Danny

This should have been put up a long time ago, but since we’re border crossing the next few days and probably won’t have internet, here is a little ditty or what I like to call Ode to TP.

When the rumble begins
and the moment is near
time is short
eyes well with fear

you look around
find the right door
run ahead
the stalls number four

The first is chosen
closest it is
someone is inside
the throne is his

Is there one clean
lucky enough you are
because if it wasn’t
you wouldn’t have made it very far

The pants drop
you sit in a second
relieved at last
your smile begins to bend

As you look up
something important is missing
you really do wish
you’d only been pissing

But as things would have it
pissing you’re not
with the pants down
you’ve been caught

The tears well up
you’re more terrorized than ever
will you forget this day
probably never

Toilet paper, like the air
usually there when you sit
but when it’s gone
oh man, you’re in deep $hit!

Filed Under: Colombia, South America Tagged With: necessities

“Acro” and “Mulas”

July 21, 2009 By Jillian

Flying above the ground at 400m, I asked my tandem partner “you do this every day all day?” “Si, senora,” he replied. Sometimes work isn’t so bad after all.

After our adventures on the river and our hike along camino real we decided it was time to take things up a notch. Literally. So we signed up to go on a tandem paragliding adventure. Unlike the United States, there are almost never release forms to be signed when doing extreme or adventure sports in other countries. While at first it seemed odd, I have never felt unsafe. That is until Alex, my tandem partner asked me if I wanted to do “acro”. Unsure as to what “acro” was and heading Danny’s advice never to say yes without completely understanding I replied. “Yo no se, que es la significa de acro?” “Vueltas,” he replied. (turns). “Oh, ok. Entiendo,” I said, signifying that I understood him. Lost in my translation of course was the fact that I had not yet agreed to do “acro”. As we began to climb higher above the ground he quickly jerked the sail to the right and we began to spin. And by spin I mean circle at fast speeds high above the ground loosing altitude with every spin.

As Danny told me later, everyone on the ground could hear me scream from 400m up. It was insanely fun though and when my turn was over I thanked Alex profusely for the “acro” and the time in the air.

Many of you may not realize what a Tour de France fan Danny is. Working from home the last few years he was able to watch each stage live. Now that we’re pretty much limited to watching via the Internet, our 40km bike trip to the Juan Casi Cascada became our own mini Tour de Colombia. Riding for what seemed like hours along the Rio Fonce we finally reached the waterfall in the heat of mid-day and of course splashed right in. I think the picture of Danny sums up the temperature of the water. It really was that cold. Somewhat refreshed, but mostly frozen we headed back towards San Gil. Signs along the highway warned “Peligro Mulas en la via.” Having quickly forgotten the lesson of the day before, that my Spanish isn’t nearly fluent enough, I decided Mulas was mules (turns out it actually is mules!). Needless to say, not five minute later we came across a lone mule loaded with sugar cane walking down the road. Mulas! I exclaimed to a bewildered Danny. With not a single other human soul in site, the mule proceeded down the road, even crossing sides of the street to avoid traffic. Amazed, we continued on our way passing several more lone mules along the road. Turns out there are Mulas en la via!

Filed Under: Colombia, South America Tagged With: paragliding, spanish, waterfalls

San Gil es Perfecto

July 20, 2009 By Danny

Before I say anything else I think it is of the utmost importance to recognize the fact that someone here turned 26 (not me, I’m already 27) on Friday when we arrived in San Gil, the self-proclaimed adventure capital of Colombia. To commemorate the occasion in style we celebrated with juicy steak, delicious cake, and exquisite Chilean wine. This was of course AFTER we set up our whitewater excursion for the next day. Priorities.

The water level was, as seems to be the case with us 100% of the time, low. As we prepared for our first river trip without a kayaking guide, just following after a raft, and without any staff that could speak English, we noticed that the equipment was a little subpar. By subpar I mean that my paddle was missing a 1/3rd of its surface area…another first for me. The river was a strong (the water was surprisingly pushy for the low water level) class II river with a couple of III’s thrown in there. Thankfully this made it the easiest river we’ve done yet and so we don’t have any stories of blood and gore for a change. On the other hand, the poor condition of our equipment allowed us each to save the other when upside down for the first time. Nevertheless, we had a great time on the Rio Fonce.

Finishing the river early in the day we headed for the nearby towns of Barichara and Guane. We had hoped to walk back (about 6k along a “delightful” trail) from Guane to Barichara but as the bus left Barichara for Guane and began its rather steep descent into the valley below…we were less than pleased with our chances of making it back before nightfall. While in the Guane museum – filled with hundreds of fossils and pieces of colonial history from the area – we were more concerned with the amount of time it would take to walk back than with the new dinosaur skeleton discovered in the valley a mere nine months ago.

With three hours to do it and being told that was the most it would take, we started the trail and finished in less than half half our allotted time…silly us for being worried. The path itself was created by a German some years ago to commemorate the trail the indigenous used to “commute” in the time of the Spanish conquest. We passed many fossils in the rocks, we could identify some fish and clams, as well as a couple of still alive gringos and a man on a mule. When we finished, way ahead of schedule, we celebrated with some delightful grilled meat purchased from a street vendor (cost $1) and then warmed up with some yummy hot chocolate.

Filed Under: Colombia, Food, South America Tagged With: Birthday, hiking, whitewater kayaking

Me Encanta Bogota

July 16, 2009 By Jillian

Today is our last day in Bogota, on the one hand we can’t believe we’ve stayed here almost a week and on the other we wish we could spend a few more days. We’ve really enjoyed Bogota, it is a modern city with public transportation, parks, cafes and plenty to do.
Perhaps we’re enamored because its so different than Central America, or because we have great CS hosts, but either way its been a great start to South America. I can honestly say that its the first city we’ve been to since March where I could see myself living.

There’s been a lot to do here, we’ve hit a lot of museums but the one worth highlighting is the Museo de Oro (Gold Museum). An incredible collection of Pre-Columbian gold objects, the museum is really a masterpiece. Collections of religious and ritual items, corporal decorations, and an incredible statue depicting a religious procession thought to have inspired the story of El Dorado, the legend of the golden king whom the conquistadors sought for but never found. Even more amazing than the shear number of objects were the intricate designs made in gold.  The miniature offerings for the Gods, often depictions of daily life from objects in the home to humans, were breathtaking. We even found a mini hammock, which unfortunately we could not add to our ever growing hammock collection.

Bogota doesn’t lack for the strange and bizarre either. Outside of Bogota we stumbled upon another of the supposed “seven” wonders of the world, the Salt Cathedral. Now you may ask yourself- what is a salt cathedral. Well… it’s actually a cathedral carved into a huge salt deposit 200m underground. What else would you do with a big hole in the ground, right? While it was neat to be in an entire complex created of salt, it was a bit strange. I’ll let the pictures tell the rest of the story, but it is worth noting that the tour guide admitted to us that it had fallen to the “eighth” wonder of the world. No surprise really.

Living here in Bogota for a week has been wonderful. The air is generally crisp like a perfect fall or spring day, chicken buses of Central America have been replaced by a modern bus system, and the terrain and vibrant city life remind us of San Fransisco without the ocean, complete with a traveling Andy Warhol exhibit.  What a great start to South America!

Filed Under: Colombia, South America Tagged With: churches, cities, museums

Hot Chocolate a la Colombiana

July 15, 2009 By Danny

The only thing you might remember from Oaxaca, Mexico is Jillian’s famous grasshopper video. Besides crunching on bugs, we’ll always remember the delicious hot chocolate.  Steaming and slightly cinnamony it was the perfect start or finish to a day. From street vendors in the morning to cafes in the evening everywhere in Oaxaca there was hot chocolate. Imagine my surprise… no delight… when I found delicious, creamy, sweet hot chocolate in Bogota.

Only in Bogota, one needs to add cheese to the equation.  Yes, that’s right, cheese. Our first morning here in Bogota our CS host Marta took us for a walking tour of downtown and ensured that we tried a proper hot chocolate…lets just say I’ve made it my mission to sample as many as possible.  So far,  so good.

In case you are wondering, here are the steps to drinking delicious hot chocolate in Colombia.

Step 1: Order your hot chocolate with cheese. For those of you trying this at home, you’ll best be served by a soft (think mozzarella) Mexican type cheese. If it comes pre-shredded all the better as this will save you valuable time.

Step 2: If it does not come pre-shredded, chop your cheese up into bits and pieces to be placed in your magical drink. Use your fingers or your silverware, doesn’t matter which.

Step 3: Put the cheese in the chocolate. As you put the cheese into your mouth keep in mind that the cheese is better in the chocolate and if you eat all of it then you will be missing out. Also be sure not to drop the cheese from a high altitude as this will send some of the chocolate onto your shirt…forcing you to do laundry prematurely and wasting valuable chocolate.

Step 4: Drink the chocolate. If you’re cheese is fluffy enough it won’t all sink to the bottom and you’ll be lucky enough to slurp little pieces of semi-melted cheesy bliss in your chocolate filled mouth.

Step 5: Eat the remaining cheese at the bottom. You should use either a fork or a spoon otherwise you risk embarrassment. The cheese will be softer but it shouldn’t be a melted mess, you will likely find the exact same sized bits you chopped up, only chocolatier.

Really, I was skeptical. This is good, I guarantee it!

Filed Under: Colombia, Food, South America

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