Archives for November 2012

Inside Zion Canyon’s Narrows

November 28, 2012 By Jillian

The Narrows may be the most popular hike in Zion National Park. Known for its canyoneering, Zion isn’t exactly as famous as other Western parks as a hiking destination, but maybe it should be.

Years ago we saw pictures of the Narrows and put it on our “bucket list”. Some day, some how, it would be cool. So when we found ourselves with a companion pass on Southwest earlier this year (more on that in an upcoming post!) we decided to take advantage of the tickets and planned our trip to Utah.

The Narrows is a 16 mile stretch of the Virgin River which over millions of years has cut through a canyon leaving a gorgeous, yet destructive path in it’s wake. Hiking the Narrows requires Canyon shoes, a good hiking stick and some pretty good information, especially in the summer when flash floods are not– ahem- rare in these canyons. Fortunately by October, the risk of flash flood is significantly reduced (yay for cold weather). Don’t get too excited, the air and water temp are equally cold. We planned to hike in full dry suits, only to see the weather warm up a few days before we arrived. With water levels low (it never came above our thighs), we opted instead for dry pants lined with long undies and plenty of layers on top.

The start of the 16 mile hike through the Narrows is deceptively wide. From the drop off point at Chamberlain’s Ranch the first few miles are easy hiking through pastures and cattle fields. We followed the river for about 2 hours before we had to get our feet wet, something we were thankful for given that it was a frosty 35 degrees F at the trail head.

By mid morning we started to enter the canyon, wide at first and lined with gigantic Ponderosa Pine trees. Most breathtaking for us weren’t the canyon walls, but the incredible colors of the leaves at that altitude. As we dropped in elevation, the colors became more muted and eventually morphed completely into green, but at the top of the canyon the bright oranges and reds looked like a vibrant fire spreading through the canyon.

Thankfully, because the water level was so low, we were able to avoid any deep water, and easily catch all the cut arounds (there is a 13 foot waterfall around mile 7) and have a relatively easy time of it. Although low water also meant less of a chance of being swept away, we were thankful to have hiking poles to test the depth and footing, especially around river bends. By the time we hit the confluence of Deep Creek (halfway through the hike), we were happily hiking with our eyes pinned up at the canyon walls.

As we continued the hike, the canyon became more and more narrow and the scenery more and more spectacular. The trees gave way to short river grass. We didn’t see another soul on the hike after the trail head until we reached Big Springs (the northernmost point for day hikers starting at the southernmost end of the canyon). Wall Street, one of the most famous stretches of the canyon appeared blue in the hazy late afternoon sun. By the time we arrived at the take out at Temple Sinawava, we were tired, wet and feeling rather accomplished.

All in all it was 16 miles in a river over 10 hours. That’s pretty darn fast, not thanks so much to our ability, but thanks to the low water level and lack of a crowd. No matter what time of year you go, I can’t stress enough how important it is to respect nature and be prepared. Two days after our hike I overheard a meeting about a rescue operation in the Narrows to take out someone with a suspected femoral fracture. Extraction from a canyon is never easy, but add to it water, cold overnight temperatures and winter sun and you’ve got a recipe for disaster. You may want to check out our Postcard from the Narrows for more pictures of our hike.

Hiking Notes: You obviously need a permit to hike the Narrows from top to bottom, even if you are planning on two days. The Park Service gives 40 permits per day, which can be reserved online and picked up at the Wilderness Desk in the Visitor’s Center. We rented shoes, booties and walking sticks from a company in town. As with all rentals, check the condition and fit of your gear before you leave the shop. We also bought a shuttle ride(about $35 per person) from a company in town from the Visitor’s Center to Chamberlain’s Ranch. It was about a 1.5 hr drive. With a 4-wheel drive vehicle you can run shuttle yourself, something that we just weren’t interested in. There are 12 campsites in the canyon, all beyond the half way point, some of which are easy to miss. You should reserve a campsite in advance and bring a stove, no open fires are permitted in the canyon.

The water level in the canyon can obviously make a huge difference in your experience during the hike, so it is important to check the water levels in the days leading up to your hike. You can check the water gauge for the North Fork of the Virgin River online by clicking here. High water not only slows you down, but makes the hike much, much more dangerous. No matter the water level, you should be properly outfitted and prepared. The water in October was cold and had the level been higher, we would have had a difficult time staying warm for so long.

Why Teach English in Korea?

November 16, 2012 By Lauren

The number one question I got when I told people I was going to teach English in Korea was this:

“Why Korea?”

Fair question. If you’d told me five years ago that I’d spend two years teaching in rural Korea, I’d have laughed at the suggestion. I knew nothing about Korea, and even less about teaching. But it happened, and here’s why.

Visas

I’m American, and my fiancé is Australian. At the time, we’d been dating for 2 years and we were running out of options – we wanted to live and work in the same country but we weren’t ready to get married and go through the visa rigmarole. I’d already worked in Australia for 1 year and it was near-impossible for him to come to the US. Korea was an appealing choice, because we were both eligible.

Couples' shirts in Korea — I promise that in Korea, matching t-shirts are okay. Our co-teachers gave us these ‘couples’ shirts’ as leaving gifts.

Eligibility

Most working holiday visas are limited to applicants between the ages of 18 – 30, but there is no such age restriction for teaching in Korea. All you need is a bachelor’s degree and a passport that shows you’re from one of seven English-speaking countries: the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, the UK, South Africa, or Ireland. As a college graduate from the US who was pushing 30, this was perfect for me.

Pay

Let’s not sugarcoat it: I needed the money. If I’d just wanted to break even on the cost of living, I’d have gone to Thailand or Central America. But I had a student loan to pay off, and I wanted to have some new experiences while I did it. South Korea has one of the highest pay rates for English teachers, starting at 1.8 million won per month. I had a TEFL certificate and a master’s in travel writing, which meant that my starting pay was 2.3 million won per month – about $2,100 USD.

Classroom in Korea — Something I didn’t plan for – the students, who were the best part of the job.

Benefits

My employer reimbursed me for my flights at a flat rate of 1.3 million won each way, as well as giving me a 300,000 won settlement allowance. For the first year, I got paid 2.3 million won on the 25^th of each month, plus an extra 100,000 a month as a ‘rural bonus.’ When I renewed for a second year, I got about 2.3 million won for severance pay and a 2 million won renewal bonus, plus I was bumped up to the next level on the payscale. Not to mention the five weeks’ vacation (which became seven weeks in the second year), the free housing, health care, and pension refund.

I’m fully aware that I will never have it that good again.

Ignorance

As I said, I knew nothing about Korea, and that was appealing. Yes, I knew that it was close to North Korea, but that didn’t deter me because here’s the thing: it’s not North Korea. It’s a small country full of scenery, culture, and generous people, and it’s really coming into its own as a tourist destination. Korea seemed just as random as Japan or China, so why not go to Korea? In the end, I couldn’t have made a better choice.

Andong, Korea — Another reason to choose Korea – excellent totem poles hidden in the forests.

Now for the disclaimer: I taught for EPIK (English Program In Korea) in Gangwon Province. Pay and benefits can vary widely depending on where you teach and what program you teach for. There are a huge variety of available teaching positions, from public schools to privately owned academies, and the application process can be very confusing. The eligibility criteria can change without warning, so do your research to make sure you know what to expect.

Why You Should Go To Mexico

November 14, 2012 By Jillian

Nothing irks me more than people who say “you shouldn’t go there, it is so dangerous.” 9 times out of 10 the person who says it is so dangerous has NEVER BEEN there. Their mom’s neighbor’s daughter’s boyfriends uncle went there once on a cruise and was robbed in the cruise port. Oh really. You don’t say. It must be too dangerous for me to go.

Just recently I was discussing travel with a friend who in reality should have known better than to tell me that “you shouldn’t go there, it is so dangerous.” I’ll give you one guess which country she was talking about, yes, Mexico. American has somewhat of an underlying psychological fear of Mexico these days. I don’t know if it is the incessant news of drug cartels or shootings, but we are downright frightened to go to our neighbor in the south. Let alone that the same reporting of violence in one major U.S. city would probably make most Mexican’s think twice about heading to the U.S. Like anywhere else in the world, you need to travel smart, watch where you go an avoid dangerous situations. As I always say, if you wouldn’t do it at home, why would you do it abroad?

I love Mexico, I love the culture, I love the people, I love the landscape and most of all, I love the food. After her comment I starting enumerating the reasons someone should go to Mexico now. What would you add to this list? Is it a fair list?

1. No one else is.

That means your money and your impact can go a lot further. Shop and stay locally. You are a more valuable cultural ambassador during low season than high season. Act like one and enjoy it!

2. Mexico is growing.

That’s right, more and more companies are heading to Mexico to set up shop, and not just manufacturers or outsourcing companies. Mexico’s middle class is growing as are the number of well educated young people. There’s great opportunity there now if you’re willing to become immersed. Last month The Economist ran an article about the global Mexican, read it, it might open your eyes.

3. Culture.

Mexico’s rich and diverse cultural heritage means one thing-if all you know is 5 de Mayo and Day of the Dead, you are missing out on an amazing cultural experience. Time your visit to coincide with a fiesta or holiday and if you can, couchsurf or stay with a family and ask questions about everything.

Oh yea and my favorite reason you should go to Mexico? The food and the people. They go hand in hand.

Cruising Turkey’s Blue Coast

November 7, 2012 By Jillian

Turkey’s blue and turquoise coast is a glistening stretch of turquoise water, small inlets and hidden ruins. Although you can travel the blue coast on land, the experience is much better by sea. After all, who doesn’t love to be lulled to sleep by the waves?

We booked a cruise from Fethiye –Olympos (you can also book in reverse) on a gullet, or a traditional wooden sailing boat. Between sleeping on board and sailing from beautiful turquoise lagoon to beautiful turquoise lagoon it was a lovely vacation to travel – but it came with plenty of warnings. Like everything on the road, tourist adventures are a little bit of buyer beware. We stocked up on plenty of information before arriving in Fethiye on tour companies, boats, things to look out for and warnings about short-cuts that some operators take. Armed with that information we had an amazing experience along Turkey’s blue coast and so can you. Here’s what we learned:

Get recommendations from others who have taken cruises recently. Captains and tour operators can change ownership quickly so it’s best to have a recent recommendation.
Don’t go with the cheapest operator! We learned this the world over, but the cheapest operator often skimps on something- food, water or maybe even a crew that doesn’t speak English! Be prepared to pay a fair price for your cruise, if someone is 50% cheaper, trust us, you’ll know why within the first 24 hours onboard.
Ask about what is included, and get it in writing. Many Turkish blue cruise prices do not include alcohol – if this is important to you do some quick calculations before you get on board.

Like anything in tourism, going in with the right information can make the difference between having an amazing, once in the lifetime experience and an experience that could have been better. Although many tour operators will sell Turkey blue coast cruises from Istanbul, it is best to wait until you are at the coast to book your tour (if you can wait!) as you’ll be able to check out the outfitter and ask questions yourself.

IF YOU GO: Turkey’s blue coast is incredibly popular with tourists, but that doesn’t mean it is overcrowded. We found that the beaches and lagoons were not crowded with boats, most of the cruise we were the only boat in a harbor. There’s also a beautiful hiking trail, called the Lycian Way that follows the coast to Anatalya if you get a little sea sick. Don’t miss a chance to explore the various Lycian ruins along the coast. From sarcophagi near Fethiye to the ancient city of Olympos and the mythical flames of the chimera, the area is rich with cultural heritage sites that are well worth the visit.

Inside Zion Canyon’s Narrows

Why Teach English in Korea?

“Why Korea?”

Why You Should Go To Mexico

Cruising Turkey’s Blue Coast

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