Everyone in the world likely has a different favorite after a night out on the town. Back in DC the late-night snack is usually a Jumbo Slice of pizza from the nearest greasy pizzeria. This is the case assuming you’re nowhere near GWU – whose late night of choice is Manouch. Manouch delivers a greasy hot dog smothered in onions and relish and a philosophy lesson on your Id, Ego, and Super-Ego that you might have received in class had you not been up all night talking with Manouch the evening prior. But I digress.
We were lucky enough to Couchsurf for half of our time in Istanbul and this meant that we were in the company of locals who wanted to take us out to see the other side of the town. We heard English spoken everywhere but the number of Turks on the prowl that night, with Ramadan about to begin (it has now begun) was rather surprising to us. When the night was over though, it was time to try the two dishes many of our friends eat only when there is no sunlight and the hour is past midnight.
First was the Midye Polma. Back home, we call these mussels. Inside the shell is a cooked mussel mixed with rice. You pick one up, the proprietor squeezes some lemon juice on, and down the hatch the mix goes. The cost was around 35 US cents per mussel.
Next up, the Islak Hamburger or Wet Burger. This is a very basic (think White Castle) hamburger, with not too much meat. They are served off a tray, already in buns, hundreds at a time with tongs. They’re literally wet with greasy garlic oil. They’re fast, hot, cost a little more than a dollar, and go right down the hatch. The first night we each had one. The second night, I had two…our host had FIVE. This is greasy food at its most basic best but I must admit, the affect these had on my stomach was not exactly a positive one.
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