To say apartheid was segregation is an understatement. A state-sponsored policy until 1994, apartheid impacted the lives of every South African, black, white or colored. Yes, I said colored. What is a derogatory word, and unpleasant reminder of our past in the United States, is actually a socially accepted means of categorizing people of mixed racial background聽in South Africa.
Standing in the Apartheid museum in Johannesburg reflecting on the differences between our separate but equal policies and the policies of apartheid I was struck with how significant the impact of apartheid is today in South Africa versus my impressions of segregation’s ongoing impact in the United States. Segregation in America had been over for over 15 years when I was born and in my experience race and racism are not openly discussed in American society today. Perhaps its because we like to pretend it doesn’t exist or that we weren’t a part of it. It’s certainly something we all know goes on, but I can’t think of an example where its socially appropriate to discuss racism outside of an academic context. To be honest, as an American, it makes me uncomfortable to discuss race and racism. It feels wrong and it feels dirty. In South Africa however, 15 years after the end of Apartheid, its rather openly discussed. Thankfully those we’ve met have been very patient with our questions and haven’t taken offense to our naivet茅 or ignorance. In turn they’ve asked many questions themselves on the perpetuation of racism in America. Our discussions have been frank, mostly focused on the future not the past. Walking through the Apartheid Museum I was struck by the breadth of information that was contained within the museum, but immediately recognized the breadth of what was not contained within the museum. Perhaps thats the issue in any museum, it can’t contain everything, so choosing itself becomes a political process.
So the question is, how does a society make amends and move on after state sponsored segregation and discrimination? Albeit our situation in America was drastically different (we imported slaves, they were dealing with an indigenous population) than South Africa’s, both nations are coping with its consequences today.
The day after the Apartheid museum Danny and I 
witnessed a young inter-racial couple walking hand and hand in a shopping center. So little attention was paid to them by other shoppers that it surprised ignorant me. Although 2015 will be 50 years since the end of segregation in America, mixed race couples still deal with a few nasty glances in today’s America. Perhaps they do as well in South Africa and I just didn’t notice. Making amends and moving on doesn’t happen easily.聽 Each country has tried to find its way towards healing. Some ways are more successful than others, but neither country will be able to but its discriminatory past completely behind them until we stop seeing people as a race and start seeing them as people.
Race figures prominently in both countries whether we talk about it or not. Obviously generalizing a country on a few days experience isn’t fair, and perhaps even after a few weeks isn’t enough, but we’ll see how things gof. For now all I can say is that we’re going to be exploring some of our uncomfortable boundaries over the next few weeks.
My experience in Africa is that the race issue varies in intensity, depending on the country. I note that it is also necessary to tease out racial and socioeconomic differences – being white is a marker for being, to most Africans, incredibly wealthy.
One country in which I felt less racial tension was Kenya. Perhaps I am deluding myself, but while I noticed a definite class tension – being a “rich” foreigner – my skin color didn’t seem to matter. Someone told me that this was a result of the historic decision of Jomo Kenyatta when he finally achieved independence for his country – he very publicly announced that he did not want whites, and Indians, to leave, he only wanted that black Africans be also permitted to succeed. Kenya’s success since then is very mixed, for sure, but on the other hand if you compare Kenya to its neighbors it really does seem to be better off, and to the extent you can tease out race vs. class, less racially tense. It is, however, still a place to get robbed – I have been pickpocketed there, and so have any number of my friends.
I must add the caveat that this is an impression, and it is one based on a relatively short time spent in-country. I will await your impressions eagerly! But do make sure you spend time there! I won’t go as far as to say that Kenya is the Peru of Africa, but as far as my own tastes and preferences go, it sort of is – both places somehow touched me and made me feel good about being there, and both somehow stand out in comparison with their neighbors. Somehow, I feel it is no accident that the first African-American president is of Kenyan descent, and not from some other nationality.
Interesting, honest observations… will be curious to hear your thoughts on this as you continue your travels.
@ Alyson- We’ll make sure to update our observations as we move north, should be interesting to say the least. I wonder how an American from a different racial background would feel here in South Africa- asian or black.
@ Mark – Interestingly enough we just met two Americans living in Kenya and they had the exact same impression. As we travel more in Africa, and it hasn’t been so long here yet, we’ve been finding a rather large variety of opinions on the subjects of race..and crime as well. I hope we’ll be able to continue talking about them w/o offending the whole world in the process but so far it has been interesting to say the least. Always appreciate your insights.
Funny thought that you “won’t go so far as to say that Kenya is the Peru of Africa” because there are many who call Peru the ‘Egypt’ (not the Kenya) of the Americas… 馃檪
I guess I wasn’t thinking of Peru in terms of its historic/archaeological features, more in terms of its varied geography, climate, and biology. But your point is absolutely right on, Danny! And in fact, it is archaeology that first led me to dream of going to Machu Picchu way back in sixth grade….
I also became interested in Kenya fairly early on – I had the privilege of meeting one of Jomo Kenyatta’s daughters when, by chance, she took my father’s African history course at the small university where he taught. Today, Chris Kenyatta is a fairly well-known public figure, and I surely doubt whether she remembers when she came to my parents’ house back in Allentown, Pennsylvania, but it was kind of a formative memory for me, because my parents frequently invited African-Americans, and Africans, to their house and this fact was in VERY marked contrast to the overwhelming majority of our neighbors. In fact, I recall that one neighbor stopped speaking to us and forbade their kids from playing with us.