The direct translation means sweet river, but in the pouring rain it seemed anything but. A popular place for sailboat and cayuco (dugout canoe) trips, the river starts at Lake Izabel and flows to the Caribbean. Along the way it winds through a small Spanish fort and a canyon, only to empty into the Caribbean at Livingston, one of the largest Garifuna settlements in Guatemala.
After waiting two days for the weather to clear up, we decided to take the boat trip to Livingston in the rain and from there catch a ferry to the town where the buses left for Guatemala City. With on and off showers, the boat ride to Livingston was anything but comfortable, but nevertheless the lush scenery made up for the wind and rain.
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IF YOU GO: Boat trips to Livingston leave from Rio Dulce at the mouth of the river. We spent a few days at an eco-lodge on the lake. Find your way to the boat dock and you’ll find a whole group of captains waiting to escort you to their favorite lodge. Crossing the river is one of the longest bridges in Central America.