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You are here: Home / Archives for mountains

Mt. Kilimanjaro- Day 3 Acclimatization

March 23, 2010 By Danny

We woke up in the morning at the Horombo camp, 3700 meters in the air, without much to do that day. We were feeling pretty good so long as we ignored the fact that everyone in our room woke up at least three times in the night to go pee. The best part of the night time escapes were the stars. Above the clouds and the lights of the cities below we could see everything in the sky including plenty of shooting stars. I hoped we’d see plenty on our walk up to the summit.

After breakfast we began our walk to zebra rock…a rock that looks like it has the stripes of a zebra. If that doesn’t sound too exciting to you its because it isn’t. The reason it was important was that we were using the “free” day to stretch our lungs and climb higher in altitude. For the first time since starting we were really feeling the altitude and it was making us walk slower and steadier. We climbed to zebra rock and then we, along with only two other climbers, continued further uphill toward the saddle trail…the stretch of land between Mt. Kilimanjaro and its sister peak, Mt. Mawenzi, climbing to somewhere around 4300 meters above sea level. From here we could not only see Mt Kilimanjaro clearly, but we could also see the seemingly vertical climb we’d have to make two days from now, sometime between midnight and 6 am, straight up the side of the volcano.

We spent the rest of the day sitting in the dining hall, playing cards and psyching ourselves out for what was to come. We watched as nearby clouds displayed their lighting for us, at eye level, and made jokes as none of us could control our bladders. It was a rest day and that’s what we did.

Despite the easy day we were still treated as though we were working hard. We were provided with hot water outside our hut in the morning and after our hike. We drank more tea than we could stomach. The meals were huge, all three of them, plus our snacks. We were preparing for a high altitude climb and were made to felt that way. Medical science dictates that above 2500m you are only to increase your altitude 300m per day…we were going way beyond that limit, which was OK because it was going to be a short trip up and then back down. Still though, we needed the rest and the nourishment to get ready.

Filed Under: Africa, Headline, Tanzania, Trek Tagged With: climbing, kilimanjaro, mountains, tours

Mt Kilimanjaro- Day 2

March 22, 2010 By Jillian

After a hectic day one, we enjoyed a good nights sleep at the first camp and woke refreshed and ready to go. Hilly but manageable, the hike to Horombo huts was relatively easy and perhaps the most picturesque of the entire hike. We climbed from 2700m to 3700m, from rain forest to sub-alpine vegetation somewhere along the way catching our first view of what we thought was Kilimanjaro. It was a beautiful hike and probably one of my favorites of the entire trek. Covered in snow, the peak looked rather daunting and for the first time I began to wonder if we should be doing this. Assuredly the head guide, George, reminded us to go “pole, pole” (slowly, slowly) every time we stopped for a water break. Neither of us could go “pole, pole” that day and before long we found ourselves several minutes ahead of our guides.

Arriving at Horombo huts earlier than we started hiking the day before (hurray!), we settled into our new digs and watched the clouds roll in. Horombo seems to sit right at the cloud level and each afternoon the entire camp was swathed in heavy fog. Truly it wasn’t such a bad thing- I didn’t really want to stare at the summit for the next four days.

Warming up a bit with hot tea and snacks, we finally got the chance to chat with other climbers. Everyone felt a bit of nervous anticipation for what was to come, and as we sat there enjoying the companionship of the other “crazy” people who were going to climb Kilimanjaro the first reports from the summit arrived. Two very tired looking Germans came into the room, followed soon there after by other climbers from the top. Reports were good: brutal, but do-able. Exhausting, but incredible. The room was abuzz with summit gossip- weather predictions, health and altitude advice, deciding what our “strategies” would be to the top. Excited to know that others had made it and were still alive we retired to our little 4 bed hut and snuggled in for a long night with our new “hut family.”

Sharing the tiny hut with two other climbers: a very nice German girl and a “super” Swede, we called ourselves a hut family to address the awkwardness of sleeping in such close confines. So close in fact, that as the diamox hit our system that night, waking us up every few hours to use the bathroom, there was no way to get out of the hut without waking everyone else. Thus we were a small hut family: we slept very close together, took care of each other and even went to use the bushes together.

Filed Under: Africa, Headline, Tanzania, Trek Tagged With: climbing, hiking, kilimanjaro, mountains

Mt Kilimanjaro – Day 1

March 21, 2010 By Danny

I really don’t know what we were thinking. Somehow, we knew since the beginning that we would give Mt. Kilimanjaro the old college try. It stood there, standing at nearly 20,000 feet, blocking our view of Kenya. With the one year mark of this trip nearly upon us, we ponied up what felt like our life savings (just wait till we post our budget numbers for Tanzania) and embarked on what was no doubt, a once in a lifetime experience…

Leaving Dar Es Salaam the day prior and arriving after dark to the town of Marangu we started the trip a bit harried. Not able to choose our gear and get briefed the day before departure, we rushed the day of departure to squeeze all that stuff in. We arrived to the park gate at 2:30pm, 30 minutes before it closed and several hours after the others who began hiking that day reached the first camp. Great start. Oh, did I mention that it began to rain the moment we stepped onto the trail….nice.

Mount Kilimanjaro stands a proud 5895 meters above sea level and is considered by some to be “every-man’s Everest.” The climb is not technical which allows people like us to take up the task but is still a serious undertaking. Often climbed round trip in as few as 5 days, we opted to take the popular Marangu (called the Coca-Cola route because of its popularity) route but to use 6 days instead of 5 to allow for extra acclimatization. The other reason we chose the popular route was that it has a-frame huts for sleeping meaning increased comfort (warmth) and decreased costs as there was no need to pay for extra porters to carry up camping equipment.

The first days walk, about 3 hours, took us from the park gate at 1970 meters (6400 feet) above sea level to the Mandara camp at (9,000 feet) 2700 meters, nearly 1000 meters in altitude. Now above 2700 meters we were officially “at” altitude. The line is considered to be 2500 meters, the same air pressure you breathe each time you fly in a commercial aircraft. We arrived late and wet, but not at all exhausted from the walk and in fact a bit surprised we had climbed so high so fast. The trail had been very smooth and easy and our biggest regret with arriving so late was that we didn’t have a chance to meet any of our fellow climbers, tomorrow we said as we went to sleep listening to the falling rain on our a-frame…

Filed Under: Africa, Headline, Tanzania, Trek Tagged With: hiking, kilimanjaro, mountains, tours

Torres del Paine

November 16, 2009 By Jillian

To call ourselves hikers and not go to Torres del Paine National Park in Chile would be the fastest way to loose our credibility. So despite the awful weather, we crossed yet again into Chile arriving in Puerto Natales in the middle of yet again, another snowfall.

Famous for its rock structures (the torres or towers) the park is covered in hiking trails through the mountains and around the turquoise glacial fed lakes. One of the most famous of these hikes is called the “W” which takes 3-4 days to complete and not surprisingly makes a W path around the major points of interest. Without the proper camping equipment and fearing that Florida boy Danny would turn into a popsicle with more than one night camping next to a glacier, we opted to do a modified “W”, which really looked more like a “U”.

Blame it on our adventure racing, but we’re pretty goal oriented when we hike. So when our bus from Puerto Natales arrived at the park later than expected, we charged up the mountain like a pair possessed, determined to make it our original goal for the day. The constant damp, cold weather that’s been following us the last few weeks finally caught up with us as Danny hacked, coughed and sneezed his way up and down the trail. By the time we got within sight of the mirador, we were a classic case of tortoise and the hare. The steep trail had become in my mind practically vertical, and I had no motivation to continue.  And then a french woman on her way down came sliding into me like a baseball player sliding into base fueling my displeasure even more. I complained as we crossed the snowline, which we didn’t expect to cross.  As we hauled our tired bodies over the final set of boulders and arrived at the mirador I was umm… disappointed. While Danny thought the view was incredible, it took a while to grow on me.

The moment we arrived the clouds seemed to part allowing sunshine to bathe the towers.  It was still cold and windy, but somehow the sunshine made it better.  As the professional photographer next to us snapped nearly his entire memory card of pictures, we took our requisite pictures, enjoyed the view and decided we’d had enough of the freezing cold. As we turned to pick our way down we heard a rumble next to us. Ice had been falling off the towers since we arrived, but this was a deeper rumble and before I could process what was going on, Danny shouted “avalanche!”  While the view of the torres in the end won me over, no view can ever compare to watching an avalanche no matter how small from out of harms way. It was a humbling experience.

We had along way to go before our campsite so we headed down. Because of our late start, we hiked literally until dark, hauling our tired bodies into the campground a little before sunset. Thankfully we found our rented tent had already been set up, but unfortunately the “reservation” for two sleeping bags and mats was a joke, and only one of each was available. Thank god the guy at the desk took pity on us spending the night in our lightweight fleece sleeping bags, which we had intended to use only as bag liners, and gave us a comforter off his bunk bed to use.

We’re pretty far south now, so sunrise is about 5:45 a.m. And sunset is around 9:15 p.m. With so many hours of sunlight we figured we’d get up early the next day and complete our modified trek in plenty of time to catch the last boat back to the bus stop at 6 pm. Our haul the day before had taken a toll on our bodies, specifically Danny’s head cold. Couple his inability to breathe well with the hurricane like winds and it was an easy decision to take the “early” boat back at 1pm. The park itself was beautiful, and despite the steep entrance fee, $30 per person, we would definitely recommend to anyone to come in better weather and spend a week hiking the trails.

Filed Under: Chile, South America, Trek Tagged With: hiking, mountains, patagonia

When Nature Calls

August 13, 2009 By Danny

Everything Jill just shared about our Santa Cruz Trek is absolutely true. It was a fabulous hike, especially with the mules carrying everything. What made it even more special for me was how I woke up that first morning…when it was still dark out and I ran to the toilet (err, I mean hole in the ground).

Yes, when I woke up that first morning…after our first night of camping, I had diarrhea. For starters, pooping in the outdoors isn’t too fun to begin with. I’m not sure how many of you out there have actually done this before but you have to squat down low with your pants off totally exposed to the elements. Doing it once a day is bad enough but 4 times in one cold morning and pretty soon the thighs are hurting more than your pride.

So that is how my day started and it only got “better” from there. We debated turning back as we hadn’t walked very far the day before but there was a horse along on our trip and the Israelis who rented him, Boaz & Neri, urged me to ride it, so I agreed. I’ve not ridden horses but half a dozen times in my life and seeing this horse run from its handlers when they tried to bring him to me didn’t exactly give me a warm and fuzzy feeling inside. Eventually I got on the thing but the group had already left without me leaving no one for my horse to follow…this meant I had to “drive” him myself. When you turn the wheel on a car it turns…on this horse, not so much. I spent the first 20 minutes of my ride doing circles around our campsite while another group took the opportunity to laugh. Great fun I was having. Also keep in mind that when a horse walks/trots it is very bumpy and my stomach was already in not so great shape.

Eventually another cowboy came along and gave my horse the push he needed to start up the fairly steep trail. Did I mention this day I chose to wake up with diarrhea was to be the hardest day of the trail? After an hour or so I caught back up with my group and trotted along for awhile. Eventually the trail got too steep for my horse and I had to walk him a bit. I’m not sure if it was the altitude (already above 4000m) or my body but that 100 yards or so impossible for me that Alexander, the Russian in our group, had to walk the horse for me as I simply couldn’t pull him.

Getting back on the horse my body temperature was now all out of wack. The air temp was falling yet I was starting to show a pretty decent fever. In addition to the t-shirt, fleece, and windbreaker I was wearing I ended up donning a down jacket from the Italian Fabrizio while taking tylenol from his girlfriend Valentina. Back on the horse it basically walked at its own pace…I didn’t even bother trying to tell it where and when to go.

Before reaching the main climbing portion of the day, where we’d climb all the way to 4750m to cross to the other side of the mountains, the guide told me that the horse wouldn’t be able to do all of it with me on its back. Feeling a little better, despite barely touching dinner and only eating a stale roll for breakfast, I started walking and resolved to finish a cliff bar by the time I got to the top. I quickly fell behind the group but step by step managed to keep a reasonable pace. Stopping every 100 yards or so I just kept working at walking. Someone (I think it was Jill) put Sound of Music in my head so I started singing “doe a deer” to myself….I think people thought I was going insane. Thankfully I had Jill on one side of me and Fabrizio on the other urging me along…singing and all.

At the top of the pass everyone began to eat their lunch. I looked at my half eaten cliff bar (the one I had resolved to finish before getting to the top) and at a rock on a flat piece of trail, and decided to take a quick power nap before doing anything else. Then I finished my cliff bar. The Tylenol I’d taken was starting to wear off and I was becoming colder so I led the way downhill and let everyone else catch up…which they did quickly.

Seeing that I was getting weak again everyone suggested that I try to get back on the horse. Taking their advice but still feeling very exhausted the guide handed the reins to his 11 year old nephew Chris, rather than to me, telling him to guide us down slowly. In the 5 minutes I was on the horse I found myself reminding Chris to go slower…go slower….then he gave the reins a tug and the horse wasn’t ready. The horse lost his balance and began to fall forward. I flew over the top of the horse, upset stomach and all, landing ahead and downhill of the beast. For the first time I can remember I tried not to stop myself but to continue falling as I figured the horse was rolling down as well. Nope, he regained his balance once I flew over the top but I was still down on the ground. Yes, I fell off the horse.

Only a few bruises on my shins so no worse for the wear but still not the way I wanted to go down. A few people, I’m not sure who, helped me up. Another hiker asked if I was suffering from altitude sickness or diarrhea as he had coca leaves to help with the altitude. I started climbing downhill and found Valentina for some more of that Tylenol.

In hindsight the day could have been WAY worse. I could have been far sicker and the horse could have fallen on me. I still wasn’t able to eat much for dinner but the next morning, despite feeling incredibly weak from having not eaten, I felt 100x better. I really did have a great time on the hike despite my troubles and am – thankfully – completely fine now.

Filed Under: Peru, South America Tagged With: camping, dirrhea, hiking, mountains

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