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You are here: Home / Archives for Destinations / Africa

Khartoum

May 17, 2010 By Jillian

At the convergence of the Blue and White Niles, Khartoum seems to straddle an invisible line separating sub-saharan Africa from Arabia. Geographically it may not be so, but there is a certain cultural divide that comes together with the Niles. White robed men linger in the souk with their brightly dressed East African brothers while women from the west and the south- their faces scared by ritual cuttings sell delicious tea (chai) on the side of the road. Khartoum is in many ways a reflection of Sudan’s place in Africa, it is the largest country with perhaps the most visible regional diversity on the continent.

Mosque in Khartoum

Khartoum was lovely. We spent nearly a week camping by the banks of the Blue Nile, walking the length of the city several times over, exploring the Omdurman (Arab section of town) souk courtesy of a local couchsurfer, drinking gallons of fresh juice and even enjoying an ice cream or two where we could find it. From the wonderful couchsurfers we met up with to the market stall owner who invited us in for tea, and the men who invited us to lunch at the sailing club (which was delicious!), we were constantly meet with gracious hospitality and genuine interest.

Our wonderful CS “family” in Khartoum

Walking back from the Sudan National Museum, Danny and I were stopped on the street by a local family. Introducing himself to us, and then in turn his two boys and his veiled wife, the man welcomed us to Sudan and wished us a pleasant stay. This scene was to be repeated time and time again in Khartoum. Instead of taxi drivers following us down the street honking and yelling: “Taxi! Good price!” the drivers in Khartoum waved at us out their window and yelled, Welcome! It was a delightful change of pace.

Standing at the Whirling Dervish (sufi dance) ritual at sunset on Friday, we were fascinated not only by what was in front of us, but enchanted (thats really the only way to put it), by the people of Sudan.

Filed Under: Africa, Headline, Sudan Tagged With: capitals, cities, rivers

Foodie Friday: A taste of Italy in Ethiopia

May 14, 2010 By Jillian

Although the Italians were pushed out of Ethiopia after only a few years, their influence remains in the cuisine and coffee crazed culture of Ethiopia. Nearly every local restaurant or cafe serves pasta, usually spaghetti bolognese or marinara, and certainly every bar has a true ‘Made in Italy’ espresso machine.

IMGP2271That’s not to say that Ethio-Italian is true Italian. Trust me, I lived in Florence, I know real Italian. This is not, it’s distinctly Ethio-Italian, which as you may have guess means berbere spice. Some places the pizza was so heavily ladened with berbere that we had to take breaks for water between bites. Other places had a delicious blend of berbere and tomato sauce that wasn’t exactly Italian, but tasted great none the less.

Ethiopian coffee is world famous, and the Ethiopians have definitely overstepped the Italians in the presentation of coffee. A traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony starts with roasting the coffee beans before preparing and serving the coffee. Having only started to drink coffee in Mexico, Danny was shocked at his first Ethiopian coffee, which resembled a strong espresso rather than the nescafe instant coffee we’ve become accustomed to.

The biggest problem with Ethio-Italian was the carbo-loading that we put our bodies through. At some point we simply lost the ability to eat injera. The locals here eat that spicy mix of meat as many as three times a day and we just couldn’t do it anymore. Pizza and pasta carried us through!

Filed Under: Africa, Ethiopia, Food, Headline Tagged With: cultures, foodiefriday

Entering Sudan

May 13, 2010 By Jillian

The time had come to leave Ethiopia so after a few days touring the monasteries and Lake Tana in Bahir Dar and the castles in Gondar, we headed towards the Sudanese border.

After our introduction to Ethiopia, we were expecting the worst at the Metemma/Gallabat border, but despite a few aggressive money changers on the Ethiopian side and a small trek to find the mud walled immigration office, all went well. As we entered Sudan we were met by the first of many military officers, who inspected our passports and visas before letting us pass through to customs and immigration. Although time consuming, the border formalities on the Sudanese side were easy, although the TV blaring E! True Hollywood Story – Scream, made for a somewhat bizarre experience.

Pulling into our last check- the “security” check, we followed the instructions and mistakenly pulled into a small concrete walled compound filled Toyota Land Cruisers, fitted with large machine guns, (Did I say large, I mean HUGE!) Their drivers were asleep in the shade underneath the vehicles and moments later an official poked his head out the window and motioned for us to go to the right area and not the scary one. Fortunately they were good humored about it and as they took down our details for the third time since crossing the border, we learned a few words in Arabic.

As we only learned a few quick words in Arabic we were still in need of some serious help in doing pretty much everything. A normally quick and easy task to buying a new SIM card for the cell phone proved a bit difficult as it took a team of locals walking Danny from the provider’s office across the street to buy some airtime, working together to understand how much to purchase and then loading it into the phone for me. The numbers here are written differently and aside from a few more words in Arabic we can almost write the numbers 1-10 in Arabic as well. The amazing thing, considering where we’ve been recently, was that everyone just wanted to help us and no one was looking for any money whatsoever. We were foreigners, their guests, and they our hosts.

On our way at last, we drove through flat pastures and grazing land on the way to Gedaref. At each check point along the way, the military officer greeted us, asked where we were from, welcomed us to Sudan and sent us on our way. Big guns and big smiles actually made us feel rather welcome and as we feasted on falafel and salad that night (for all less than one US dollar) we were thankful for the change of scenery.

Filed Under: Africa, Ethiopia, Headline, Sudan Tagged With: borders, security, travel, visas

The Ethiopian Way

May 12, 2010 By Danny

Ethiopia is by far the most unique country we have visited thus far. Because it was never conquered (except briefly by Mussolini as part of World War II) it has maintained many of its own traditions in the face of modernity. We may have struggled with the food, with some of the locals, but much of this modern day culture, steeped in ancient tradition, is downright fascinating.

Religion: Ethiopia has it’s own brand of religion, where the practiced Christianity is far older and more closely aligned with the Old Testament. The Emperor’s of Ethiopia are believed to be descendant of King Solomon and so the familiar Star of David (that’s the Jewish Star) is literally everywhere. When walking through the churches of Lalibela the chanting of the priests made me feel as though I was touring parts of the old city of Jerusalem rather than a church. The best part was when I purchased two Stars of David and the men just referred to it as the Axium (an ancient capital city) cross.

Time: This is just downright confusing to Westerners. In Ethiopian time the day begins at 6am on our clock rather than midnight on our clock. That means that the sun rises at 11pm or 23:00. Most buses leave at midnight (6am our time) but you need to be there by 11:30. So basically you need to know that your morning bus is actually 6 hours earlier than the time written on your ticket.. Noontime is 6 and sun sets around 12. The nice thing is that the clock counts up all day long and one you’re used to it, it actually makes things easier as the entire day is AM and the entire night is PM, not that the Ethiopians actually use AM or PM to distinguish, however.

Date: Yup, they do that differently as well. They are 7 years and eight months behind us. It was 2002 the entire time we were there because their new year doesn’t come until September. (Remind anyone of Judaism?) Naturally they use differently named months and as well but the difference between the two calendars is that when the rest of the Western world switched to the Gregorian calendar in 1582, which periodically has been edited by popes for various religious purposes, the Ethiopians stuck with their Coptic (based on an Egyptian system) calendar. This means that there are 12 months of 13 days with a 13th month added every four years without exception. (You might remember we skipped a leap year in the year 2000 meaning my cousin who was born on leap year had to wait 8 years between birthdays.)

Every time we did anything here we did so with a bit of a double take. Never sure if we were right or wrong we always needed to find someone bilingual to ensure we did it right. It was confusing and it was different and that made it all part of the adventure. Having said that, if I see another injera before the 2011 I, well it won’t be pretty.

Filed Under: Africa, Ethiopia, Headline, History & Culture Tagged With: cultures, travel

Sudanese Visas

May 11, 2010 By Jillian

Sudan can be an incredibly difficult country to get into,which considering the current political situation is understandable. Traveling on American passports we figured there was no chance of us ever being able to get in. It wasn’t until an Italian couple waiting in line with us for Ethiopian visas told us that they’d heard of a “transit visa” with only a 24 hour processing period.

IMGP5266Fast forward two weeks to Addis Ababa where we were told by the Sudanese embassy that the transit visa is $200 for Americans,and yes, 24 hours to process, but we’d need our Egyptian visas first. Applications in process for Egypt, we went on our way touring the country, only to return to Addis 10 days later to process our Sudanese. Filling out the form we noticed a fill in the blank that we’ve never come across before on a visa application- religion.

To say Sudan and Israel don’t get a long is an understatement. Sudan doesn’t recognize Israel and in fact until two years ago Sudanese passports stated that it was not valid in Israel. If you have an Israeli stamp in your passport Sudan immediately denies your visa application. So what, we wondered would they say if we wrote Jewish? Asking at the Egyptian embassy, the receptionist told us just to lie- you’re from America, just say you’re Christian. An Israeli in the waiting room agreed- why create problems…you’re American so maybe you can just write Capitalist!

IMGP1787Sure it would have been easier, but neither of us were comfortable denying who we are. After much debate, we asked the Consular Officer at the Sudanese Embassy on the day we applied for the visa (but before we handed over the money!) if our being Jewish was a problem. His answer: “No problem.”

Thankfully it was no problem, and 24 hours later we had our Sudanese transit visas in hand. We are nervous heading into a country who’s president is wanted by the International Criminal Court for his role in the worst humanitarian crisis (Darfur) in the world while the recent (corruption laden) elections threaten civil war…but we are cautiously optimistic that this is the right decision…to see a country as it is rather than as CNN portrays it.

Filed Under: Africa, Ethiopia, Headline, Sudan Tagged With: visas

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