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You are here: Home / Archives for Reviews

Copper Canyon Railway – Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacifico (Chepe)

March 25, 2009 By Danny

Despite its status as merely a train, the Copper Canyon Railway or Chepe as it’s often called in Spanish, is a destination all by itself. Initially planned in the 1800’s to link Kansas City to Mexico’s pacific coast, it was finally finished in 1961 and only goes as far north as Chihuahua, Chihuahua, Mexico. The railroad has 37 bridges and 86 tunnels and because it never exceeds a 2.5% grade actually completes a 360º loop over itself as it makes its way down from The Sierra Madres and into Creel.[ad#final-review-ad]

The train ride, while comfortable, is long and slow. Much of the scenery at the beginning is of the desert and is consequently similar to many other parts of Mexico. While the scenery did improve as we moved into alpine forest, this traveler did not feel that the scenery was worth taking the trip on its own. If taking the train be sure to plan to get off in Creel, Divisadero, or another stop along the way so that you can actually enjoy the land rather than just viewing it.

The second class train is a far greater value than the first class train as it is nearly half the price and the only difference is the food options available on board. The first class train has a full restaurant while the second class has only a snack bar. Regardless of the train chosen, be sure to ask for seats – at the ticket office – on the right side (facing south) of the train as most of the journey features only a rock wall on the left side.  Additionally, if taking the second class train be sure to pack some food for the trip. Lastly, the terrain from Creel to Chihuahua is nothing special and buses serve this route many times a day for a much lower price, be sure to check out this option of stopping in or near Creel.

Filed Under: Mexico, Reviews Tagged With: biking, copper canyon, reviews, train

Schwab Fraud Customer Experience

March 24, 2009 By Danny

I recently applied for and received a Schwab Invest First Visa card for both myself and my wife. I applied for these cards because Schwab charges no foreign exchange fee. Here is what I had to go through to receive the cards.

  • Late January – Call to signup. Explain that I will be traveling for an extended period of time. Signup materials sent.
  • Early February – Fill out paperwork when it arrives. Field calls from Schwab and explain my travelling situation again. Decide with agent to just send everything to my future permanent address in Florida as I will be moving away from DC in a few weeks. Confirm sending of all cards for both myself and my wife.
  • Monday, 9 March – I arrive in Fl and find only ATM cards, the credit cards were not present. Call and find out they were sent two days prior (late) to my former DC address. New cards arranged to be sent out that day via overnight express. I speak with the fraud dept to prevent further problems.
  • Tuesday, 10 march – wait all day for FedEx to arrive with the cards. They never arrive. Call back that evening and am told that they should have been sent but can’t figure out why they weren’t. Prepares to resend tomorrow, Wednesday, but we will be boarding an airplane for California that day so she needs to have them sent to a CA address.
  • Wednesday, 11 march – I get off the airplane in California and receive a voicemail from my mother alerting me that Schwab had called and that I need to call back immediately. I call back, and answer several questions they have for me because I’ve switched the delivery address and they are concerned. I am assured however that the cards were in fact sent out that day and I would have them in California tomorrow. I should call back in the morning to receive the tracking numbers.
  • Thursday, 12 march – Just kidding! I cannot get the tracking numbers because the cards were never sent, naturally I’m a bit angry as I leave the country tomorrow. I speak to supervisor Jesse in the fraud department who says tough luck. He sends me to speak with someone in acceptance who first says they were sent yesterday, then that they couldn’t be sent till tomorrow because it would take a day for them to be made, then that they will be sent today. Naturally this lack of knowledge has me concerned and I ask for and get supervisor Ashley. Ashley tells me they were sent yesterday, oh wait..the fraud dept has questions for me (the ones I answered last night) and she needs to transfer me. I tell Ashley of all the people I’ve spoken to she is the worst and I hang up.
  • Thursday, 12 March – I call back and tell them to send them to a FedEx location in San Diego near the highway that we can get to on the way to the border. This works and…
  • Friday, 13 March – I pick up a pair of cards, 20 minutes before I crossed the border.
    Since then 5 credit cards have arrived at my home in Florida all via regular mail. From what I can determine, one card was sent to me in DC at the wrong address and somehow forwarded to Florida. Another pair of cards was also sent to this errant DC address, I imagine these were sent when I confirmed that cards for both me and my wife were being sent. Lastly, a pair was sent directly to Florida at what looks to be step 3 above, I believe the woman who handled things there forgot to put them in for express service.
    Now that I am traveling and have my cards I am quite happy with them…but what a pain in the ass.

Filed Under: Reviews, USA Tagged With: money

Baja Ferries La Paz- Topolombampo

March 24, 2009 By Jillian

The trip across the Sea of Cortez from La Paz with Baja Ferries was simple and pleasant. We had been warned to arrive at the ferry early and to be prepared for extensive security searches (Baja is an entry point for a large quantity of drugs headed into Mexico and the USA) however this did not materialize for us no the other passengers without cars. We were ushered onto the ferry quickly and found a comfortable place to sit for the 6 hour journey.[ad#final-review-ad]

The ferry itself was much larger than I expected as it was once a cruise ship. While the ship had been renovated for use as a ferry, the passenger area still reflected its past with a disco, theater, restaurants, gift shops, and lobby area. For our comfort several movies were played and we were able to roam around freely as though it was a cruise. For an additional fee, a private cabin could be rented although this was hardly necessary for our afternoon trip; had we been traveling in the reverse direction we may have considered this but given the amount of space on the boat it still would not have been necessary.

The biggest negative point I have to make is that the ferry is extremely expensive. At three times the rate of a comparable first class bus ride (without driving a car aboard) the ferry should have a variety of amenities beyond the bus but at its base it is merely another form of transportation. Still, it is the cheapest and most direct way from Baja to mainland Mexico.

In total the trip lasted just over 6 hours and save for watching a group of Mexican truck drivers giggle while watching Shrek, was uneventful. Upon arrival in Topolobambo the bus was easy enough to locate and charged 30 pesos for the trip to Los Mochis. Arriving in Los Mochis at 11pm was not problematic at all.

Filed Under: Mexico, Reviews Tagged With: baja, ferry, transportation

Espirtu Santo – Azul Tours

March 20, 2009 By Jillian

We began our journey to Espiritu Santo with plans to kayak around the island. Once we discovered this would be a two day trip requiring good equipment and some planning, we instead opted for a boat tour of the Island. Several other beach-goers highly recommended Azul Tours having themselves spotted several varieties of whales, including blue whales.

When we pulled up the morning of our tour we had no reservation. At 600 pesos Azul was slightly more expensive than competing Marlin Adventures, but there is no question that our tour was longer and more fruitful than the Marlin Adventures boat. Additionally, we were promised a lunch, including beer, on one of the world’s most beautiful beaches…but only after we’d had our fill of snorkeling with the ‘Lobos Marinas’ (Sea Lions).[ad#ad-3]

The boat itself was comfortable and apt to the job of showing up to 12 passengers around the island. It was small and open yet we did not get wet while riding and my camera was safe the entire time. As we approached the island we slowed down to circle a small colony of sea lions floating in the middle of the water. Our captain showed a great deal of patience ensuring we all had an opportunity to take pictures.

Next we received a radio call from another Azul Tours boat alerting us to pilot whales in the area. The captain, Saul, informed us that this is not common as pilot whales are usually here in August, not March. Regardless, he was just as excited as the rest of us and got the boat as close as he could for some pictures. This was particularly challenging as the pod would descend without warning and then reappear elsewhere, creating a challenge for Saul to keep up.

After following three different pods of pilot whales we received a radio call about a nearby humpback whale. While we were not able to get as near to the humpback, there was only one and it was able to stay under the water for a large amount of time making it difficult to track, Saul was the last boat to leave the area as we kept trying to get that perfect picture. I’m not sure I ever got it, but I certainly gained an appreciation for the huge size of the animal.

Next we sped off to Los Islotes where the there were so many sea lions the air stank of their breath and we had trouble telling whether the load burps were from them or from members of our boat. We donned tour provided snorkeling gear, including fins, and followed our guide as he showed us to the sea lions who were only too happy to check us out. Saul was not only the only guide in the water but he swam us around to different points to show us different fish, crustaceans, and still more sea lions. He brought a starfish up from the bottom for us to hold. You could tell the man loved his job.

Once we’d had our fill we climbed back aboard the boat and to Ensenada Grande where we ate delicious ceviche and Marlin, enjoyed a few beers, and swam in the crystalline waters. Once we were on the way back the show did not end however; I spotted a school of manta rays floating near the surface, a couple even threw themselves out of the water. We circled for a few minutes which was more than sufficient to take plenty of pictures.

We were told our tour would be 4-6 hours and we pulled in at the 6 hour mark. While we went to the same places as the other tours there was no question that we stayed longer as our captain put in the extra effort. We also learned it was extremely important that we drove to Playa Tecolote to begin our trip rather than starting way back in La Paz. The La Paz based trips spend the same amount of time on the water but much of this is speeding to and from the island. Additionally, these tours only see one half of the island; meaning no whales.

If you chill easily you would be well served to rent a wet suit for the snorkeling portion as the waters can be a bit chilly, but this is not necessary.

Filed Under: Dive & Snorkel, Mexico, Operators, Reviews Tagged With: baja, la paz, sea lions, snorkeling, tours, whales

Guerro Negro Whale Watching: Malarrimo Eco Tours

March 20, 2009 By Jillian

With several options for whale watching in Baja California, we chose Malarrimo and had a wonderful time. Initially we had planned to go whale watching at the San Ignacio Lagoon only to discover that the lagoon was 2 hours from the town via a dirt road, unaccessible via public transportation. We had chosen San Ignacio over Laguna Ojo de Liebre as the San Ignacio whales are known to be more friendly than the whales found in the waters off Guerro Negro, no matter…the gray whales we saw were plenty friendly.

We arrived in Guerro Negro while it was still dark and found the still sleeping town easy to manage despite the hour of the day. Malarrimo was a mere block away from the bus station and they allowed us to stay in the hotel lobby with our things until the tour began. Despite not having any reservations we were able to join the group without a problem. Right on schedule – the morning tours have been known to spot more whales than those in the evening – we boarded the bus and headed out to the Lagoon.[ad#ad-3]

Guerro Negro is an unassuming blue collar town. While the gray whales in the Laguna Ojo de Libre put this town on the tourism circuit but first and foremost the town is here on account of the large salt mines. This means that rather than English speaking restaurateurs seeking to overcharge and under-serve, you can have a real Mexican experience. In addition to the whales there are also excellent birding opportunities along the marsh shores of the salt mines.

As we drove through town and then through the salt mines our guides addressed the group in both English and Spanish. The guides used this time to share some of the history of Guerro Negro and the lagoon as well as provide all necessary safety information for our boat trip. Upon arrival at the dock we had a final opportunity to use the ‘bano’ before donning the tour provided windbreakers and personal flotation devices.

Every year gray whales migrate from their northern homes to the waters off the coast of Baja California to calve during the winter months. The combination of the safety of the lagoon as well as the high salinity of the water make this area ideal for the whales. In fact, half the worlds population of grey whales participates in this Baja migration annually. Once the calves have doubled their birth weight they will embark on the 3 month trek back to their northern feeding grounds.

After a blistery trip out into the lagoon we slowed down and began to scan for the whales. In no time at all our captain had spotted a mother and baby and sped off for us to see them. For a more thorough account of our time petting and playing with the whales click here. I was impressed the entire time with the captain’s professionalism in balancing our interaction with the whales with the whales safety.

The captain only used the boat’s engine, as guaranteed by Malarimmo, to get us within 20 meters or so of the whale, allowing the whale to choose to come the rest of the way.

Before heading back to shore we were provided with a lunch consisting of a fruit soda which I will not try again, a very tasty chocolate bar, and a moderately sized fish sandwich. After a few more encounters with the whales, with dolphins playing nearby, we bid adieu and headed back. En route the captain stopped several times for us to view various birds atop buoys as well as large colony of resting sea lions.

The tour was a complete success and at $49USD each was a much better deal than any whale watching we could have done in the USA. Despite the boat being small and exposed to the elements and therefore uncomfortable, I found it much preferable to be able to get so close to the animals. I fully recommend this as a great trip but advise it is best to dress for the weather and to be prepared to get a bit wet as the whales have a tendency to blow some water in your face.

Filed Under: Mexico, Operators, Reviews Tagged With: baja, tours, whales

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