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You are here: Home / Archives for Destinations / South America / Ecuador

Middle Earth

July 27, 2009 By Jillian

Well we’ve made it to middle earth, well sort of. We made officially made it to the Southern Hemisphere crossing mitad del mundo (the middle of the earth) or as its more widely known, the equator. Determined by a French expedition in 1736, the true equator lies about 200m from the monument and “official” equator marking. Needless to say we did the “official” equator nonsense before moving on to the GPS determined real equator. In what can only be described as Equitorial Disney World, the “official” equator monument lies in a theme park of sorts. They even had the Polaroid people there to take your picture in front of the monument for $10. A park and leisure area with pavilions and museums, gift shops and restaurants it was a little too bizarre and touristy for us to stay in for longer than was necessary. The only thing missing was a large furry rodent, until we saw him roasting on a spit. His name is cuy, guinea pig, a delicacy here we’ve yet to try.

Tipped off by our friends Dave and Tracey, who made their way through Ecuador late last year, we knew there was another equator explanation just outside the gates. Our instructions were to find a restaurant called Equinox, go inside and there we’d find an ancient indigenous explanation of the equator in a small display room.  We fled Equitorial Disney World and headed down a dusty road looking for this place.  Searching up and down the road, it wasn’t to be found and eventually we gave up and instead went to Museo Inti-Nan.

A very eclectic and yet interesting outdoor museum, it actually occupies what GPS has determined is 0 latitude. Set up almost like a high school science class, the tour started with show and tell of the Ecuadorian amazon, shrunken heads and all (don’t worry its been outlawed for the last 50 years!), and continued to the actual equator. Through a series of science experiments and demonstrations, our guide shared with us the “secrets” of the equator and how the indigenous Quito people knew the earth was round and indeed they were in the middle of it.

In case anyone is interested, yes the water does swirl the other way south of the equator, and I mean literally. The following videos were shot 5 feet north, 5 feet south and on the equator. Incredible!

North of the Equator:

From the Equator:

South of the Equator:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vh_mgR6gvuEv

Filed Under: Ecuador, South America Tagged With: equator, museums

A Breakdown in Diplomacy

July 27, 2009 By Jillian

Standing in line for Ecuadorian immigration I read the latest poll in the local Colombian paper- Do you think FARC financed the election of Ecuadorian President Rafael Correa? An overwhelming majority of respondents felt that it had.

Relations have been steadily deteriorating between Colombia and Ecuador due in part to Colombia’s anti-drug campaigns which have included bombing FARC bases in Ecuador in March 2008 and the impression, at least in Colombia that Ecuador is not doing enough to stop drug trafficking or confront FARC. In fact, as a result of the bombings in March 2008, Ecuador cut diplomatic ties to Colombia. Add to that the video which surfaced July 17th in which FARC leaders acknowledged donating funds to the President Correa’s 2006 election campaign and well lest just say diplomatically things have gotten heated.

Arriving at the border we expected that bureaucratic formalities would be longer and perhaps there would be an strong military presence. Standing in line for our salida from Colombia, we were processed in less than five minutes, not a single military or police official in sight. Crossing the bridge to Ecuador we were greeted by a huge billboard notifying everyone of the governments commitment to fight drug trafficking and a small band of military police who acted more like construction workers on break standing around joking with each other.

Despite the break down of diplomatic ties, the border was going strong- a heavy stream of traffic flowed in both directions seemingly without end. We waited an hour to get to immigration, and less 10 minutes later we were sitting in a collectivo on our way to catch a bus to Quito. Just goes to prove, governments might be feuding but business is business and life must go on.

We made it to Quito that night, after an additional five hours on the bus. Ecuador is more like Guatemala, whenever anyone flags down the bus, its stops. Needless to say this is quite often. Fortunately the scenery through the mountains was spectacular and we were happy to watch our water bottle compress and decompress as we changed altitude.

I feel like a broken record saying this, but Quito was an assault to our senses. We stayed in the La Mariscal neighborhood, the main tourist neighborhood, full of hotels, bars and restaurants. Unbeknown to us we had placed ourselves directly in the center of Quito’s going out neighborhood. While great for the variety of restaurants, we fell asleep to the sounds of pop music coming through our hostel loud and clear.

Filed Under: Ecuador, South America Tagged With: border crossing, diplomacy, mountains, music, quito

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