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Guide: Hiking the “W” Trail – Torres Del Paine, Chile

January 13, 2011 By Danny

Hiking the ‘W is a must do for all backpackers who manage to make it that far south. In our opinion, most do it in a way that is either more expensive or more work than necessary. Below is what we did, then some suggested changes to our path to maximize your enjoyment and minimize your time and expense. Doing this trek in 5 days, if you are a regular hiker, to me, is downright silly. If you want to do a longer hike, with less people, do the circuit.
Access: To Puerto Natales there are daily buses from Rio Gallegos and Peritto Moreno (El Calafate)in Argentina. From Puerto Natales there is a twice daily bus, making the several hour trip from town to the park, the first leaving in the morning around 8am and the second leaving around 2pm. Both buses pick hikers up for the return trip from the park to town.

Our time in Torres del Paine:

Day 1: We arrived on the morning Puerto Natales bus and made it to the start of the trail around the middle of the day. We set out immediately hiking all the way up the first leg of the ‘W’ to the Torres themselves and then back down again and almost to the second leg of the ‘W’. We slept that first night in Refugio Los Cuernos. Many would do this portion over two days but traveling with minimal gear we were able to make it with relative ease. Camping there and using the hut’s supplies rather than our own cost a couple of dollars extra but given that we didn’t need to rent equipment in town, this balanced out. It is important, even during low season to have a reservation if your planning to rent equipment. We made a reservation and they still didn’t have enough sleeping bags to go around! Plan ahead!

Day 2: We had planned to get up early and hike either the second or the third leg of the ‘W’ and get to the ferry to return to the bus to return to town in the early afternoon. As I’d started the trek with a cold we decided to just walk to the ferry at Lodge Paine Grande, but this was only because of my failing health, not lack of time. Had I started the trek healthy and we gotten up and began our walking at first light we would have been fine to do at least another leg of the W.

Other options:

One Day Hike: Not as hard as it seems. Take the afternoon bus from Puerto Natales and overnight at the first camp, staying comfortably in their lodge or huts. Begin walking before first light and you’ll have more than enough time to do the whole trek and make it to the Lodge Paine Grande camp at Laguna Azul before dark, spending a second night there and either taking the ferry the next day or walking to park headquarters to catch the bus back in the morning. This could be done in reverse as well. This is for seasoned hikers only who know what they’re doing. If there is a sudden change in weather you will likely need to alter your plans dramatically and you need to be prepared for that.

Two nights on the Trail: This is probably the best option for doing the entire trek with minimal time, expense, and discomfort. If you do your first day as we did above, then you can make an easy second day viewing the second leg of the ‘W’. Get up early the third day to visit the final leg or make a longer second day and do both legs there. Whichever way you divide the final two legs, plan to spend the second night at camp. Had I been healthy we would have gone with this option

Tips:
You can pay to stay in the huts or in the hut campsites. Equipment is available for rent within the park for camping, more expensive than in town but you don’t have to carry it, or just stay in the dormitory or the refugios. Full board can be purchased at each hut as well so if you don’t want to carry your food either, you don’t have to. When we were there everything for purchase was cheaper if paying with U$D rather than Chillean Pesos so ask in town before departing. All itineraries above can be done in reverse.

Be sure to take care of yourself while there, use the long days to pack in extra miles but don’t forget to go to sleep. Here’s a picture of the Torres del Paine National Park Topo hiking map:

Globetrotters Seek Work

January 11, 2011 By Danny

Many people ask us what we’ve gained from all this travel. What do we offer potential employers? As we sit down and start to identify what it is – exactly – we’ve gotten from all of this, we realize it’s much more than we ever expected.

For starters there is the obvious, our knowledge of history and geography are far deeper than ever before. We’ve seen great new markets for familiar products and can advise on more than one from which to stay away. If given the chance we could probably provide Coca-Cola or any number of car companies with a decade’s worth of advertising material.

We’re now accustomed to the unexpected and can readily come up with somewhat unconventional solutions that get the job done and keep everyone happy. In tough situations we’re used to maintaining our composure, rolling with the punches, and keeping the momentum moving forward…even when driving on the wrong side of the road.

For 5 years we worked and managed our lives toward a specific goal. With that initial – financial – goal achieved, we continued to work inside a very fixed budget and 21 months later returned on schedule and under budget, no small feat when you consider we dealt with 10 intertwined cash accounts, over 40 currencies…and no income. Shall I even mention my new found negotiation skills?

It took intensive dedication to research with an attention to detail to get through Africa and Central Asia over land; what roads were opened and closed, what visas could be obtained in which locations, where we would sleep each night. When it comes to balancing the logistics of multiple multi-day visa waiting periods, adept prioritization and planning is key.

We have a global network of friends, colleagues, confidants and advisors on every continent save for Antarctica. We can turn strangers into friends quicker than most politicians turn handshakes into votes. Small talk is important, that’s how you get to big talk.

Working in a team we once calmed an angry, machine-gun wielding, Ethiopian border agent; an angry client who actually speaks my language should be a cakewalk. It’s not just the words that count, you’d be surprised at just how expressive your gestures and body language can be without you knowing it. Good thing we’ve communicated with people in over 20 languages we don’t speak…let alone English and Spanish.

Above all else, there is one thing that we now trust in far more than either of us ever thought imaginable: that given the right tools, there is no challenge too big to handle.

The End of Our Road

December 8, 2010 By Danny

The time has come.

As this post goes to ‘press’ we will be landing in the United States. We are filled with all kinds of emotion but mostly we’re just thankful to have had the opportunity to follow our dreams.

We’ll post more on this site in the coming weeks, we still have a few weeks of travels to fill you in on, but for now, just enjoy the video!

Country Guide: China

November 8, 2010 By Jillian

Traveling overland through mainland China offers a great combination of comfort and value for money. Our two greatest challenges were choosing where to go and how to communicate with people. First we’ll talk about some of the hurdles to traveling in China and then try to help you out a bit on destination planning.

Essentials

VISA: We were told we could only get this in our home country but once on the road we learned it was also possible to receive the visa from a handful of Chinese embassies and consulates within Asia. It is an expensive visa but there are several options available for tourist visas and finding a suitable one shouldn’t be too difficult. Rush processing was available in DC, but the visa is apparently difficult to get in Kazakhstan.

TRANSPORTATION: Other than actually buying the ticket, this was usually quite simple and comfortable. Internal flights for trans-continental routes are usually quite reasonable and we recommend the website travelchinaguide.com for English train schedules and travel planning. Take the train overnight is quite comfortable so long as you are in a sleeper compartment. We usually went hard sleeper (cheaper) for our overnight trips but would have preferred a soft sleeper for any trip where we were spending significant waking hours aboard the train.

INTERNET: This is slow and unreliable outside of major cities, but there is widespread access. It has been estimated that as much as 10% of the Internet is blocked from within China including the most popular website in the world, Facebook. If you want to use the Internet freely while in China try to sign up with a VPN service, such as Witopia, Astrill or Hotspot Shield BEFORE traveling. Internet clubs and access is quite common but don’t plan to upload any photos while there. Speeds vary greatly. In some areas (like Xinjiang) foreigners aren’t allowed to use Internet cafes, but if you have your own computer you’ll have no problem getting online in your hotel.
COMMUNICATION: Surprisingly difficult almost everywhere outside of the major cities. We created a guide to communication which you should probably read over before traveling in China. Many hotels we walked into didn’t have a single employee who could speak English. Obviously, this is less of a problem in larger cities but you should be prepared for communication challenges.

FOOD: If eating meat and you’re weary of trying strange things then you might want to consider switching to vegetarianism…otherwise just try everything. Szechuan cooking is what you’re likely most familiar with from home but the rest of the Chinese cuisine is far more varied. When visiting city markets you should be prepared to see snakes, frogs, turtles, insects, organs and plenty of other animals you would not normally think to eat.

HEALTH: Public toilets are readily available in China, but outside of the main tourist attractions in major cities they are “squatters” and there is never toilet paper or soap. Smog is a major health concern, try to vary your itinerary between cities and countryside, your lungs with thank you. Pharmacies abound, but always be vigilant and inspect the product before you purchase it- there are a lot of counterfeit pharmaceuticals and toiletries in Asia.

HOLIDAYS: We were traveling in China during the National Holiday which begins at the start of October. We would strongly advise against EVER going to China at this time or over any other holiday as these are the periods when domestic tourism completely takes over. We found it extremely difficult to find transportation and lodging at times and many sites we wanted to visit were so over crowded that it just wasn’t worth paying admission.

MONEY: We had few problems using ATM’s in China, but some require a 6 digit pin. Bank of China and ICBC always allowed us to access our accounts. There are ATMS in all major cities, but it’s a good idea to keep cash on hand for rural areas.

Sights

BEIJING: Within Beijing, taking the brand new subway system is cheap and efficient so long as you avoid riding at peak times. The system will take you to almost any site you might like to visit with the exception of the Great Wall and for that local tours abound for selection in the Hutong just south of Tienanmen square. When entering or leaving the city be sure to triple check the train station you’re using as there are several. It is also advised never to enter or leave Beijing by bus as traffic can be horrendous.

BEIJING TO XI’AN: This can be done as an easy overnight train or with several interim stops enroute. There are a variety of sites accessible in the region from the ancient town of Pingyao and the caves of Grottoes Datong, both easy targets from Beijing or Xi’an. There are several other sites to the east of Xi’an that might be of interest to those interested in the Silk Road.

XI’AN: No need for a tour. You can take the city bus from in front of the train station right to the Terracotta Army without much trouble. There are some other sites in the area but are of much lesser significance and excitement in comparison and can also be more difficult to reach. If you want to ‘see it all’ there are plenty of day trips that most hotels in town can book for you. Also be sure take a walk on the city’s wall and take in the sights of the park on the outer side of the wall. If you’re not going any further west Xi’an’s market is a great place to pick up Silk Road paraphernalia and try some Central Asian foods like shashlik or plov.

SZECHUAN: From Chengdu itself you can visit with Pandas, watch Opera, see the world’s tallest Buddha, and pick tea. This is a great region to travel in if you want to try an experience different ‘types’ of China without covering too much distance. The array of options is plentiful and Chengdu itself offers up a large amount of culture on its own. Most independent travelers focus on this region and those to the south, which we do recommend, but on account of National Holiday we were unable to travel south, from Sichuan to Yunnan, as planned.

TIBET: If you want to go to Tibet you will need to obtain permission when booking your trip once inside China, and this can be denied. The situation is always changing, seemingly day to day. You will need to travel with a licensed guide and unless flying to Lhasa, the train ride from Lanzhou is usually two nights. The whole trip can be quite difficult and expensive. Instead, we traveled overland via bus from Lanzhou, Gansu to Chengdu, Sichuan through some of the Tibetan borderlands, focusing on our visit to Xiahe. If you do want to see Tibetan culture it might be easiest and most rewarding to focus on these borderland regions, from Lanzhou south, across Sichuan and Yunnan provinces, as this can be done with far less hassle.

WESTERN CHINA: We entered China from Kazakhstan and traveled overland from Urumqi to Lanzhou without much of a headache. On this route we saw the beginning of the Great Wall and accompanying fortresses as well as the Magao Grottoes at Dunhuang. Although we enjoyed all of this immensely, I’m not sure I would recommend that everyone head out this far west when the rest of the country has so much to offer.

Getting past language barriers

October 28, 2010 By Danny

I’m staring at my wife gesturing wildly with her arms. From my view point I can’t tell what she’s trying to communicate and it looks like the locals are confused as well. Is she looking for a swimming pool or the airport?

It’s a serious challenge to communicate when you don’t recognize the language let alone speak or read it. Ever since leaving Turkey, we have had the communication competency of illiterate deaf mutes. Every country has had its own alphabet (although China doesn’t even have that much) with it’s own very specific language. With few signs in English and even fewer English speakers, it can be difficult to do even the simplest things.

Here are ten items and skills we’ve come to rely on:

1.A Bilingual Order Form – Go to an online language translator and type in words like “train ticket” and “bus station”, “date” and “soft sleeper” and whatever else you might need. Print up that piece of paper and when it’s time to buy your ticket or check into your hotel, point to what you need. This is especially useful for transportation when you have to choose a class of transportation (like on a train), a date and/or a seat.

2. Cell Phone – Sure, a cell phone is useful to call people but it is far more useful than that. When you don’t know your numbers in another language this is often the best way to communicate a price for something. Many sellers who normally work with tourists will have a calculator sitting by for the same purpose, but this isn’t always the case. Using your fingers also works nicely but when the exchange rate is something strange like 150 to one US dollar then its hard to know if two fingers is 200 or 2000.

3. Maps – Everyone is familiar with a map of the world. Having a set of maps (we’ve had this mini atlas with us the whole way) to show where you’re from, where you’ve been and where you’re going, is a great way to have a simple conversation. More valuable though, is to have some fairly local maps that are bilingual so that both you and a local can read it. When trying to buy a train ticket from Urumqui to Dunhuang, and you’re not pronouncing ‘Dun-who-ong’ with the proper tone, having that map at the ready is a huge help. We purchased a bilingual Chinese Atlas our first day in China for $3.

4. A Picture Dictionary – No, not an album, a book. This is probably our best friend when we’re struggling with all our other methods. We usually use the Point It book which has a lot of photos of things you might need to purchase or use. It has a few different varieties of seats and beds for trains, a picture of a few planes and boats, all kinds of meats and produce and even a diagram of a cow to help you get the cut of meat you want, to avoid ordering intestine. There are colors, computers, iPods, different denominations of several currencies, and even few different types of toilets. We carry a second picture book filled mostly with icons, one clearly shows snakebite while another demonstrates vomiting quite elegantly.

5. A Photo Album – Yes, this too. We actually tried to put together a mini-album before we left but ran out of time. Instead, we now have a ton of photos loaded onto our iTouch which allow us to share photos of our travels as well as photos of our family and friends from home.

6. Business Cards – Not our idea but it’s a great one nonetheless. We made some $5 cards before we left home and haven’t run out yet. They have our photo on them so that people can remember who we actually are. We’ve received emails from people we met 6 months back who lost and then found our cards. People all over the world give these out and its a quick way of exchanging information when you’re running to catch a bus.

7. Digital Camera – This is a much more valuable tool than just taking photos. Want to tell a taxi to take you back to your hostel but can’t tell him the exact street its on, take a photo of a nearby landmark. Afraid of getting lost in a Turkish Bazaar, just take a photo of the entrance you use as you walk in and when its time to go, show it to as many people as you need until you find it again. Works to name street signs or even subway stations when they are are written in ‘squiggly’ rather than Latin characters.

8. Charades – We are better at this than you can imagine. The problem is that it has become a language onto ourselves that we speak fairly fluently but no one else does. No wonder the locals are staring at us. We’ve just made the sign for X when we mean Y. Nonetheless, we’ve learned to be very creative with how we contort our hands and bodies to make signals at people.

9. Pen & Paper – You’d be surprised how much easier pictionary is than charades. Just trust us on this one and keep a pen with you. It’s hugely useful at all kinds of random moments.

10. Patience – This should be obvious but it is easy to forget as you’re flailing your arms at a bunch of confused faces. Of course your trying to say ‘fire’ but they just think you think you’re a bird. Remember you’re in their country and they don’t need another language to go about their daily business.