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Guide: The African Safari (DIY)

April 18, 2010 By Danny

There are two main types of safaris, the do-it-yourself and the guided safari. The plethora of options with guided safaris are simply too numerous to discuss here so we’ll just list a few basic points you’ll want to think about before you put down your deposit. Continue reading though for the do it yourself (DIY) options as these abound as well and can often be far more enjoyable.

A few things are good to remember whichever you choose however. First is that only 2-4 days of a safari is necessary. Anything beyond that and you will likely develop “cabin fever” inside the car and simply not appreciate where you are and what you’re doing. Second is to only go out in the car when the animals are out. Usually this means going out for early morning and late evening drives. Driving around in the middle of the day, when most animals are hiding from the sun in the shade of trees, is generally a waste of gasoline. Remember to think like an animal and drive to where the water is, and enjoy. The time of year is also significant as rains not only bring tall grass (making game viewing difficult) but also bring lots of young animals.

Guided Safari’s

Every game park on the African continent will have some local business running safaris in and out. Some will set up your tents for you while others will introduce you to some of the finest luxuries imaginable. The basic premise though is the same, drive around and look for animals. Some private game reserves will radio collar the animals, guaranteeing game sightings of even the rarest of animals. Most though will drive around, and look and see what they can find. The biggest differences amongst these will be the accommodation and food supplied so be sure to shop around.

If you specifically want to do a guided safari then you should look to either a private game reserve in South Africa, or the parks of Tanzania (Serengeti or Ngorongoro) or Botswana. There are plenty of others to choose from if you are interested in a more “bush” experience but these locations represent the best combination of infrastructure and wildlife. Just about any park outside of South Africa however, will be very difficult to do on your own. Paying for a guided tour of a national park (such as Kruger) in South Africa may be a giant waste of money as you can just as easily, and much more economically, do these parks 100% on your own. Of course, if you are a solo traveler you might enjoy the company of a guided tour, but certainly groups or couples can save a significant amount of money on their own.

Do It Yourself (DIY) Safari

There are a few very simple steps to this one, it is surprisingly easy to do and arrange and you will likely enjoy having control of when you go where.

1.Go to South Africa. With the exception of Etosha National Park in Namibia (in the far north) most places you’ll be able to drive yourself for safari are in South Africa. A good guidebook will usually include a wildlife section that will be sufficient but if this is your big African trip better spring for a book dedicated to African wildlife.

2. Rent a car. If its summertime (remember this is the southern hemisphere) be sure to pay for air conditioning. Also be sure the car is comfortable as you’ll be spending a lot of time inside. A four wheel drive vehicle isn’t really necessary but being higher off the ground is a big plus when the grass is tall.

3.Choose a park, maybe buy a national park pass. The wild card pass program from the South African Parks represents great value if you are going to do a lot of game viewing. If just going for a short trip you’ll probably be fine without it. Check our our guide to South Africa for help in choosing which park is best for you. The pass is also good at all national parks in South Africa as well as several parks in Swaziland.

4.Get up early for morning drives. Spend the middle of the day at the pool with some meat on the grill or braai. Go out for evening drives and pay for the occasional ranger led evening or night drive.

5.Some parks to consider:

Kruger. The largest park of all. Very easy to do on your own with plenty of options. Most of the wildlife is at the southern end of the park so it is generally best to base yourself there. If looking for a change of pace while in the park head up to the Oliphants for stunning views and a mountain bike trip through the bush. With this park you should realize though that this is South Africa’s premier park and for that reason draws crowds in far larger numbers than many of the other, smaller parks. Wildlife spotting here tends to be based on stopping where 5 or 6 other cars have already stopped. Nonetheless, every animal you could want to see is on display here, and in growing numbers as well. Just be sure to mind the elephants!

Hluhluwe—Imfolozi: Not as well traveled as Kruger but still easily reached from both Johannesburg and Durban this park is most known for the white rhino, who owes its survival as a species to the work this park has done over the last 100 years. In addition to the rhino the entire Big 5 is on display here and with far fewer crowds than Kruger. The big bummer here is that there is no camping inside the park but the fact that its located near the St. Lucia wetlands helps to make up for this.

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park: This park is our absolute favorite. A royal pain in the butt to get to but well worth it if your up for some serious game viewing. You can still visit this park in a 2 drive vehicle but a 4×4 is advised as no roads are paved and several are quite bad. This park is specifically known for its cats and we more lions than we could shake a stick at…not to mention the elusive cheetah as well. Its location in the north, wedged between Namibia and Botswana (you can cross into each country from within the park) makes for a small population of professional game viewers and photographers, and not too many other people at all.

Addo Elephant National Park: If you want to see lots of elephants come here. Plenty of other animals on display as well. I’d recommend driving to a good watering hole (ask around when you’re close or in the park) and just park your car and sit and let the animals come to you. Just be sure to give the elephants the right of way!

Namibia: The main game viewing here will be at Etosha National Park in the far north. The park itself can be quite spectacular but the drive to get there can be too much depending upon your tastes. For more information on Namibia consult our adventure guide.

Botswana: This can be done on your own but be prepared for large periods of time without seeing another human being. A 4×4 is a must and you need to be very prepared not only for the long journey but also for very expensive park and camping fees. For these reasons we decided to skip Botswana and to possibly return on a guided trip to the Okavango Delta someday.

The Rest: There are plenty of parks throughout Southern Africa. The best advice is to choose a path to follow and visit the parks along that path. If you’ve seen all of the big 5 in one park it might not make sense to go and search out others. Use your judgment and remember to enjoy the experience.

Country Guide: South Africa

April 18, 2010 By Danny

South Africa is not a small country, not only is it large in size but it also has a tremendous variety of things to do and see. The expected game viewing and safaris, the relaxing Indian coastline, beautiful forests, tasty food, a unique history of gemstones and apartheid all combine to make any trip to South Africa an unforgettable one.

ESSENTIALS

Budget:

You can think of South Africa like any other western destination in this regard. Plentiful ATMs provide you with cash which you’ll spend as if you were at home in Australia, Europe, or the USA. South Africa is not a budget destination but with a little work it can be visited relatively inexpensively.

Transportation:

If you are visiting only one or two places (such as Cape Town followed by a safari) then you’re probably fine flying between those destinations. If you want to spend several weeks taking in as much of the country as possible you’ll be best served by renting a car. Independent travelers accustomed to using public transportation or the Baz Bus should be warned that neither represents good value and can be quite a bit more expensive than you’d expect. The only way the Baz Bus really makes sense is if you plan to spend a tremendous amount of time on the Garden route.

Planning:

Take a look at the below list of places and activities and take a peak at what suits you best. If you are going to be driving the country it is probably best to make a loop of some kind. If Cape Town and the Garden Route are your thing then maybe stretch your trip from Cape Town through Addo Elephant Park. If you prefer to see the different indigenous cultures you might enjoy a loop from Johannesburg to Swaziland, Lesotho, and the Wild Coast. Of course, you can do it all. If you have the time, go for it all, but be sure to seek out free copies of the “Coast to Coast” and the “Alternative Guide”, local accommodation guidebooks published for backpackers and independent travelers. Both can be a tremendous help when you find yourself in a small “dorp”. Although shorter than “Coast to Coast”, we preferred the accommodation and other listings in Alternative guide.

The Safari:

If you’re going to South Africa for a safari, you should probably consider doing it yourself, in your own rental car. Be sure to read our Safari Guide which has some valuable tips on making the most of your DIY safari. Whatever you do though, be sure to relax and enjoy it and not spend every waking moment driving for animals.

Highlights:

Cape Town: A wonderful city to pass a week. Hike up and over Table Mountain (about 8 hours round trip depending on your route) from the beautiful gardens of Kristenbasch. Take a multiday wine tour through Stellenbosch and top that off with a nice Cape Malay meal at the waterfront so long as you don’t forget to make a visit to the the Cape Point.

Johannesburg: There are a ton of people here and so there is a ton to do. In town we highly recommend the World of Beer as a relaxing afternoon. The Apartheid Museum is another can’t miss if you’re planning to do anything in South Africa beyond game viewing. Do be sure to take in some sports while in town (or in Durban or Cape Town) such as Cricket or Rugby!
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The Garden Route: South Africans rave about the Garden Route as one of the must see’s of their country. The entire route, stretching along the Indian coast from Port Elizabeth to Cape Town IS stunning, but it is just that. If you’re interested in spending some time relaxing on the coast this is the place to do it, but don’t feel a need to push yourself to visit each and every place along the route…that’s not the point of the Garden Route. Some quick notes as you head east from Cape Town.:

If flying in, you’ll probably start at Cape Town, Port Elizabeth, or George, but you should plan to drive it yourself, do not visit the route as part of a tour.

If you’re into checking places off your life list then be sure to go to where the two oceans actually meet, Cape Agulhas, the southernmost tip of Africa.

A can’t miss day will taking a ride on an ostrich and then the adventure tour at the Cangoo Caves, both easily reached from George

Activies abound, souch as paragliding and bunjee jumping as well as enjoying the crash of the waves and the hiking trails of the Tsitsikamma National Park.

If you want to tack some game viewing onto a tour of the Garden Route, then Addo Elephant National Park is probably your best bet.

Lesotho: If you’re looking for a more traditional African experience, Lesotho is a must on your list. You’ll need a good roadmap. Drive into the Malealea Lodge, park your car, and just stay there. The lodge has camping and nicer rooms available. You will have a good experience. Go for a hike and enjoy.

IMGP9736 Swaziland: The curios are cheaper, the rapids are bigger, and you can get closer to the animals if you choose. Best to just base yourself one place, the Milwane Nature Reserve is probably best as they have a range of accommodation and nearby attractions. You can do your main game viewing here as well but it will be a bit more expensive than doing it on your on in South Africa.

The Drakensburg Mountains: Plenty of hiking available here but only if you can drive in on your own, the campsites in the central district of the park, near the amphitheater, are quite nice. If you are sticking to the Baz Bus route than the Sani Lodge will be your best bet. Unless you’re going during a holiday season you shouldn’t need a reservation.

The Wild Coast: Difficult to get to but if you’re willing to spend the time here, probably worth it. Don’t go just for the sake of saying you’ve been there, go if you’re willing to spend a week soaking up the wilderness of it all.

Blyde River Canyon: A nice, peaceful, and scenic area just west of Kruger National Park. After a few days in the safari vehicle this is a nice place to come and go for a hike or a bike ride. Plenty of B&B’s in the neighborhood, just choose one and relax.

Country Guide: Bolivia

October 31, 2009 By Jillian

Heading to Bolivia? Here’s our brief guide on what not to miss!

Access: Air – La Paz or santa Cruz. Land – Lake Titicaca (Peru), The Salar and the Atacama (Chile), Amazon and Pantanal (Brazil)

Points of Interest:

Bolivian Amazon – One of the cheapest and easiest points to access the Amazon rain forest. Travel to Rurrenabanque from La Paz via very scary/uncomfortable overnight bus or fly. Cancellations and changes to flight tickets are easy and not costly. Once in Rurrenabanque we recommend the pampas tour as you will have fewer insects and more wildlife, it is also cheaper than the jungle tour. You can book this in town, generally for the following day.

Death Road – At some point you will likely pass through La Paz and the death road is not to be missed. The trip is not much of a mountain bike trip so much as a thrill ride, but it is a lot of fun. Be sure to choose a company with a good safety record and just enjoy your carefree day. Most tours will bring you back to La Paz at the end of the day, in time to catch an overnight bus to Uuyni if you´d like to continue to the salt flats. Here’s our review of Pro Downhill a death road tour operator.

Salt Flats – Easiest to travel to Uyuni from La Paz overnight via bus, booking a tour once you arrive in Uuyni, beginning later that very day. (Busses to points east do not run overnight.) Tours can range from 1-3 days and are generally all inclusive. If the salt flats is all you care to see then a 1 day trip will be fine. Days 2-3 visit other natural landforms (gysers, lakes, mountains, hot springs, etc) of the area and can also take you to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile for free if you choose. Three day trips can also be booked in Chile. When booking a trip it is best to already be in a group of 6 (the number of passengers that fit in the vehicles) as this represents a full tour and guarantees that you´ll get a good price and be able to start when you want. Additionally, be aware that tours here are known for being very “hit and miss” so take care when choosing a tour company.

Spanish Study – Sucre is probably one of the best places in all of Latin America to study spanish. The charm of the city combined with the purchasing power of the dollar or euro make this both cheap and comfortable at the same time. The location is also close to several nearby activities (such as the mines of Potosi) which are worth going to.