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You are here: Home / Archives for Destinations / North America / Mexico

Baja Ferries La Paz- Topolombampo

March 24, 2009 By Jillian

The trip across the Sea of Cortez from La Paz with Baja Ferries was simple and pleasant. We had been warned to arrive at the ferry early and to be prepared for extensive security searches (Baja is an entry point for a large quantity of drugs headed into Mexico and the USA) however this did not materialize for us no the other passengers without cars. We were ushered onto the ferry quickly and found a comfortable place to sit for the 6 hour journey.[ad#final-review-ad]

The ferry itself was much larger than I expected as it was once a cruise ship. While the ship had been renovated for use as a ferry, the passenger area still reflected its past with a disco, theater, restaurants, gift shops, and lobby area. For our comfort several movies were played and we were able to roam around freely as though it was a cruise. For an additional fee, a private cabin could be rented although this was hardly necessary for our afternoon trip; had we been traveling in the reverse direction we may have considered this but given the amount of space on the boat it still would not have been necessary.

The biggest negative point I have to make is that the ferry is extremely expensive. At three times the rate of a comparable first class bus ride (without driving a car aboard) the ferry should have a variety of amenities beyond the bus but at its base it is merely another form of transportation. Still, it is the cheapest and most direct way from Baja to mainland Mexico.

In total the trip lasted just over 6 hours and save for watching a group of Mexican truck drivers giggle while watching Shrek, was uneventful. Upon arrival in Topolobambo the bus was easy enough to locate and charged 30 pesos for the trip to Los Mochis. Arriving in Los Mochis at 11pm was not problematic at all.

Filed Under: Mexico, Reviews Tagged With: baja, ferry, transportation

La Paz Part II

March 22, 2009 By Jillian

Still under the wing of Margaret and David, Wednesday we slept in a little bit and rode out to Playa Tecolate where we had booked a tour of Espiritu Santo, a large island off the coast of La Paz. Also a protected marine park, Espiritu Santo is known as one of the best places for sea kayaking and snorkeling in the area. You can read Danny’s review of our tour operator here. It was an amazing island and although the tour was a bit pricey for backpackers, it was well worth it. On our way around the island, our captain spotted a pod of pilot whales. We drifted closer to them and found ourselves in the midst of their movements. Although not as big as the gray whales we saw a few days earlier, seeing an entire pod of pilot whales was incredible.  As they are not usually in the area until August, our captain was as pleased as we were to see them. We drifted among them and saw them not only swim, but breach and dive as well. The third pod of whales we saw, although semi-accustomed to boat traffic, seemed agitated at our presence. One swam up to the surface and flapped his tale at the boat several times, making a large splash and a loud noise. Several others stopped swimming and instead formed what looked like a defensive position over the pod. One swam so close to the boat that he actually bumped into it. We were under attack and continued on, seeing a humpback whale just a few minutes later.

At the northern most tip of the island we stopped to snorkel… at a sea lion rookery…with sea lions. Yes, with sea lions. A surreal sea-world experience, snorkeling with the sea lions was as exhilarating as it was frightening. The shrieking you here in the video is me freaking out as the sea lions swim right up to us to play.  (We have a lot more video but just haven’t uploaded it yet).

Enthralled with the sea lions and snorkels in the water, Danny and I were separated from the group. One very playful sea lion joined us for the swim back to the group making circles around us and passes closer and closer to us.  I flopped into the boat brimming with excitement at having swam with sea lions! (We also saw some very colorful fish and I got to hold a star fish.)

Admittedly, neither of us ever took a marine biology class, but this is a trip that I think anyone would enjoy! On the way back we stopped for a beach picnic and had trigger fish ceviche and marlin escaviche, both of which were delicious. One of the best rules of traveling is to try every meal that is put before you. So far Mexico has not disappointed at all with food, its a virtual paradise of tastes and textures and we’ve yet to even have a fajita. On our way back to shore our Danny spotted some manta rays jumping through the air, which was of course the perfect ending to an incredible day.

Needless to say our short stop in La Paz was extended for good reason. Although we’re on the ferry now to the mainland I definitely want to return to Baja California again, hopefully this time with a car!

Filed Under: Mexico Tagged With: baja, sea lions, snorkeling

Espirtu Santo – Azul Tours

March 20, 2009 By Jillian

We began our journey to Espiritu Santo with plans to kayak around the island. Once we discovered this would be a two day trip requiring good equipment and some planning, we instead opted for a boat tour of the Island. Several other beach-goers highly recommended Azul Tours having themselves spotted several varieties of whales, including blue whales.

When we pulled up the morning of our tour we had no reservation. At 600 pesos Azul was slightly more expensive than competing Marlin Adventures, but there is no question that our tour was longer and more fruitful than the Marlin Adventures boat. Additionally, we were promised a lunch, including beer, on one of the world’s most beautiful beaches…but only after we’d had our fill of snorkeling with the ‘Lobos Marinas’ (Sea Lions).[ad#ad-3]

The boat itself was comfortable and apt to the job of showing up to 12 passengers around the island. It was small and open yet we did not get wet while riding and my camera was safe the entire time. As we approached the island we slowed down to circle a small colony of sea lions floating in the middle of the water. Our captain showed a great deal of patience ensuring we all had an opportunity to take pictures.

Next we received a radio call from another Azul Tours boat alerting us to pilot whales in the area. The captain, Saul, informed us that this is not common as pilot whales are usually here in August, not March. Regardless, he was just as excited as the rest of us and got the boat as close as he could for some pictures. This was particularly challenging as the pod would descend without warning and then reappear elsewhere, creating a challenge for Saul to keep up.

After following three different pods of pilot whales we received a radio call about a nearby humpback whale. While we were not able to get as near to the humpback, there was only one and it was able to stay under the water for a large amount of time making it difficult to track, Saul was the last boat to leave the area as we kept trying to get that perfect picture. I’m not sure I ever got it, but I certainly gained an appreciation for the huge size of the animal.

Next we sped off to Los Islotes where the there were so many sea lions the air stank of their breath and we had trouble telling whether the load burps were from them or from members of our boat. We donned tour provided snorkeling gear, including fins, and followed our guide as he showed us to the sea lions who were only too happy to check us out. Saul was not only the only guide in the water but he swam us around to different points to show us different fish, crustaceans, and still more sea lions. He brought a starfish up from the bottom for us to hold. You could tell the man loved his job.

Once we’d had our fill we climbed back aboard the boat and to Ensenada Grande where we ate delicious ceviche and Marlin, enjoyed a few beers, and swam in the crystalline waters. Once we were on the way back the show did not end however; I spotted a school of manta rays floating near the surface, a couple even threw themselves out of the water. We circled for a few minutes which was more than sufficient to take plenty of pictures.

We were told our tour would be 4-6 hours and we pulled in at the 6 hour mark. While we went to the same places as the other tours there was no question that we stayed longer as our captain put in the extra effort. We also learned it was extremely important that we drove to Playa Tecolote to begin our trip rather than starting way back in La Paz. The La Paz based trips spend the same amount of time on the water but much of this is speeding to and from the island. Additionally, these tours only see one half of the island; meaning no whales.

If you chill easily you would be well served to rent a wet suit for the snorkeling portion as the waters can be a bit chilly, but this is not necessary.

Filed Under: Dive & Snorkel, Mexico, Operators, Reviews Tagged With: baja, la paz, sea lions, snorkeling, tours, whales

Guerro Negro Whale Watching: Malarrimo Eco Tours

March 20, 2009 By Jillian

With several options for whale watching in Baja California, we chose Malarrimo and had a wonderful time. Initially we had planned to go whale watching at the San Ignacio Lagoon only to discover that the lagoon was 2 hours from the town via a dirt road, unaccessible via public transportation. We had chosen San Ignacio over Laguna Ojo de Liebre as the San Ignacio whales are known to be more friendly than the whales found in the waters off Guerro Negro, no matter…the gray whales we saw were plenty friendly.

We arrived in Guerro Negro while it was still dark and found the still sleeping town easy to manage despite the hour of the day. Malarrimo was a mere block away from the bus station and they allowed us to stay in the hotel lobby with our things until the tour began. Despite not having any reservations we were able to join the group without a problem. Right on schedule – the morning tours have been known to spot more whales than those in the evening – we boarded the bus and headed out to the Lagoon.[ad#ad-3]

Guerro Negro is an unassuming blue collar town. While the gray whales in the Laguna Ojo de Libre put this town on the tourism circuit but first and foremost the town is here on account of the large salt mines. This means that rather than English speaking restaurateurs seeking to overcharge and under-serve, you can have a real Mexican experience. In addition to the whales there are also excellent birding opportunities along the marsh shores of the salt mines.

As we drove through town and then through the salt mines our guides addressed the group in both English and Spanish. The guides used this time to share some of the history of Guerro Negro and the lagoon as well as provide all necessary safety information for our boat trip. Upon arrival at the dock we had a final opportunity to use the ‘bano’ before donning the tour provided windbreakers and personal flotation devices.

Every year gray whales migrate from their northern homes to the waters off the coast of Baja California to calve during the winter months. The combination of the safety of the lagoon as well as the high salinity of the water make this area ideal for the whales. In fact, half the worlds population of grey whales participates in this Baja migration annually. Once the calves have doubled their birth weight they will embark on the 3 month trek back to their northern feeding grounds.

After a blistery trip out into the lagoon we slowed down and began to scan for the whales. In no time at all our captain had spotted a mother and baby and sped off for us to see them. For a more thorough account of our time petting and playing with the whales click here. I was impressed the entire time with the captain’s professionalism in balancing our interaction with the whales with the whales safety.

The captain only used the boat’s engine, as guaranteed by Malarimmo, to get us within 20 meters or so of the whale, allowing the whale to choose to come the rest of the way.

Before heading back to shore we were provided with a lunch consisting of a fruit soda which I will not try again, a very tasty chocolate bar, and a moderately sized fish sandwich. After a few more encounters with the whales, with dolphins playing nearby, we bid adieu and headed back. En route the captain stopped several times for us to view various birds atop buoys as well as large colony of resting sea lions.

The tour was a complete success and at $49USD each was a much better deal than any whale watching we could have done in the USA. Despite the boat being small and exposed to the elements and therefore uncomfortable, I found it much preferable to be able to get so close to the animals. I fully recommend this as a great trip but advise it is best to dress for the weather and to be prepared to get a bit wet as the whales have a tendency to blow some water in your face.

Filed Under: Mexico, Operators, Reviews Tagged With: baja, tours, whales

La Paz Part I

March 20, 2009 By Jillian

We came to Baja California for the gray whales and expected to leave for mainland Mexico almost immediately. Unfortunately for our budget we couldn’t help but stay in Baja California Sur just a bit longer.

The drive to La Paz from Guerrero Negro was about 10 hours and again we took a night bus (saving time and money!). Pulling into town earlier than expected we didn’t want to call our host in La Paz at 7am so we killed some time tossing a Frisbee at the malecon (boardwalk)on the beach before finding food. Around 8am the streets started to open up and we ate our first street food breakfast, some sort of shredded beef stew with tortillas which was DELICIOUS. There is nothing quite like hot and spicy mexican food in the morning! Laura, our couchsurfing host and an amateur photographer picked us up at the bus station and plied us with another delicious breakfast of eggs and tortilla. She introduced us to La Paz with a walking and photo tour of the city before setting us free to explore on our own. Walking the malecon, we found a number of shops, overpriced restaurants and several adventure outfitters. With a healthy tourist population from all over the world, La Paz is filled with different activities, people and things to do.

On our way back to Laura we found ourselves in the middle of a political rally. Coming from DC, we know a political rally when we see one. Since my Spanish is very limited, Danny got the scoop on the situation and we found that it was a sort of State of the Union for Baja California Sur. We hung around for a while taking the scene in, but ultimately my slim grasp of the language got the best of me and we wandered away. A lovely sunset over the bay and we were home to our first shower since leaving the USA!

Laura recommended several places outside the city to visit, but virtually non were accessible by bus. Such is the story of the entire Baja Peninsula; most of the cool stuff is not accessible by bus. Sighing to defeat we planned to leave La Paz on Tuesday, however luck was on our side. On our gray whale tour we meet a lovely Canadian couple, Margaret and David, who were heading to a relatives vacation home in La Paz. They offered to let us crash with them in La Paz and luckily we were able to meet up. Besides being incredibly generous and warm people, Margaret and David were adventurous. Seemingly without limit, the four of us headed to the playas (beaches) north of La Paz on Monday and Cabo Pulmo on Tuesday, an amazing national marine park about two hours south of La Paz.  Lulled into watching the desert scenery go by, we suddenly found ourselves at the point where the sidewalk ends. A bumpy gravel road (perhaps that is an understatement – we were so concerned about the undercarriage of the car that we checked it when we got out!) lead to a small cluster of homes and tiki huts (population 58) where a coral reef hugged the shoreline. This was Cabo Pulmo. We dropped out bags, grabbed our snorkels and hit the water to find….. disappointment. I don’t know if we were in the wrong spot or if it was just a bad day, but Cabo Pulmo was not the blooming coral reef I was expecting. Don’t get me wrong, the sea was a gorgeous shade of blue and green, and the beach was incredible and not very crowded, but the marine life hardly compared to what we had expected from a national marine park. We ended the day with a hot shower and a delicious meal.

Filed Under: Central America, Mexico Tagged With: baja, beaches

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