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You are here: Home / Archives for Destinations / Africa / Tanzania

Mt Kilimanjaro- Day 2

March 22, 2010 By Jillian

After a hectic day one, we enjoyed a good nights sleep at the first camp and woke refreshed and ready to go. Hilly but manageable, the hike to Horombo huts was relatively easy and perhaps the most picturesque of the entire hike. We climbed from 2700m to 3700m, from rain forest to sub-alpine vegetation somewhere along the way catching our first view of what we thought was Kilimanjaro. It was a beautiful hike and probably one of my favorites of the entire trek. Covered in snow, the peak looked rather daunting and for the first time I began to wonder if we should be doing this. Assuredly the head guide, George, reminded us to go “pole, pole” (slowly, slowly) every time we stopped for a water break. Neither of us could go “pole, pole” that day and before long we found ourselves several minutes ahead of our guides.

Arriving at Horombo huts earlier than we started hiking the day before (hurray!), we settled into our new digs and watched the clouds roll in. Horombo seems to sit right at the cloud level and each afternoon the entire camp was swathed in heavy fog. Truly it wasn’t such a bad thing- I didn’t really want to stare at the summit for the next four days.

Warming up a bit with hot tea and snacks, we finally got the chance to chat with other climbers. Everyone felt a bit of nervous anticipation for what was to come, and as we sat there enjoying the companionship of the other “crazy” people who were going to climb Kilimanjaro the first reports from the summit arrived. Two very tired looking Germans came into the room, followed soon there after by other climbers from the top. Reports were good: brutal, but do-able. Exhausting, but incredible. The room was abuzz with summit gossip- weather predictions, health and altitude advice, deciding what our “strategies” would be to the top. Excited to know that others had made it and were still alive we retired to our little 4 bed hut and snuggled in for a long night with our new “hut family.”

Sharing the tiny hut with two other climbers: a very nice German girl and a “super” Swede, we called ourselves a hut family to address the awkwardness of sleeping in such close confines. So close in fact, that as the diamox hit our system that night, waking us up every few hours to use the bathroom, there was no way to get out of the hut without waking everyone else. Thus we were a small hut family: we slept very close together, took care of each other and even went to use the bushes together.

Filed Under: Africa, Headline, Tanzania, Trek Tagged With: climbing, hiking, kilimanjaro, mountains

Mt Kilimanjaro – Day 1

March 21, 2010 By Danny

I really don’t know what we were thinking. Somehow, we knew since the beginning that we would give Mt. Kilimanjaro the old college try. It stood there, standing at nearly 20,000 feet, blocking our view of Kenya. With the one year mark of this trip nearly upon us, we ponied up what felt like our life savings (just wait till we post our budget numbers for Tanzania) and embarked on what was no doubt, a once in a lifetime experience…

Leaving Dar Es Salaam the day prior and arriving after dark to the town of Marangu we started the trip a bit harried. Not able to choose our gear and get briefed the day before departure, we rushed the day of departure to squeeze all that stuff in. We arrived to the park gate at 2:30pm, 30 minutes before it closed and several hours after the others who began hiking that day reached the first camp. Great start. Oh, did I mention that it began to rain the moment we stepped onto the trail….nice.

Mount Kilimanjaro stands a proud 5895 meters above sea level and is considered by some to be “every-man’s Everest.” The climb is not technical which allows people like us to take up the task but is still a serious undertaking. Often climbed round trip in as few as 5 days, we opted to take the popular Marangu (called the Coca-Cola route because of its popularity) route but to use 6 days instead of 5 to allow for extra acclimatization. The other reason we chose the popular route was that it has a-frame huts for sleeping meaning increased comfort (warmth) and decreased costs as there was no need to pay for extra porters to carry up camping equipment.

The first days walk, about 3 hours, took us from the park gate at 1970 meters (6400 feet) above sea level to the Mandara camp at (9,000 feet) 2700 meters, nearly 1000 meters in altitude. Now above 2700 meters we were officially “at” altitude. The line is considered to be 2500 meters, the same air pressure you breathe each time you fly in a commercial aircraft. We arrived late and wet, but not at all exhausted from the walk and in fact a bit surprised we had climbed so high so fast. The trail had been very smooth and easy and our biggest regret with arriving so late was that we didn’t have a chance to meet any of our fellow climbers, tomorrow we said as we went to sleep listening to the falling rain on our a-frame…

Filed Under: Africa, Headline, Tanzania, Trek Tagged With: hiking, kilimanjaro, mountains, tours

Foodie Friday: Street Food

March 19, 2010 By Danny

Peru 20090725 488Many travelers make a rule of never eating the food they find on the street, fearing all manner of diseases. Instead, many of these travelers choose food from restaurants where they cannot see the kitchen or preparation, which can be more dangerous. Since day one on this trip we’ve eaten food from street vendors where we’ve found it and have NEVER been let down.

It began in Mexico when we sat down at our first taco stand, we carefully ordered one of what everyone else was eating, then another and another. The stands owner offered us some spices to make it tastier which we foolishly took, setting our mouth on fire. Not only did we survive but dinner that night and breakfast, first waiting in a long line, the next morning were also consumed on the street.  In Africa we actually expected to find bush meet, basically cooked baboons and other wild animals, for sale in the streets. All we’ve found so far is chicken and beef and our skewers with chips were quite nice, in fact some of the best food we’ve had here in Africa so far this trip.

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The Basics

The rules of street food are easy:

1. If it looks questionable skip it.

2. If you don’t see it placed on the fire yourself, ask for it to be reheated before you buy and begin eating.

3. If you smell the food from a mile away, get in line and buy two. Oh, and even if the fish looks good, unless I can see the body of water from which it came, I pass.

Eating this way serves two very real, good purposes. One, it allows us to save loads of money as this food (like hot dogs in New York, half smokes in DC, and crepes in Paris) generally are the cheapest and best value available; it is always hot and can generally be purchases on the go with spare pocket change. The other reason its so good is that most travelers seem to prefer the guidebook recommended restaurants and so you’re often on your own with locals who are happy to share their culture’s favorite foods with you and make sure you’ve got a good sample to try. Someone famous once said you haven’t experienced a new place until you take a meal there, I think that’s true but taking a chance on the street food is often the best way to do just that.

Filed Under: Africa, Food, Tanzania Tagged With: cultures, foodiefriday

So much more than a place to rest

March 18, 2010 By Jillian

We’ve seen so many things in the last year: nearly twenty-five countries, the ruins of civilizations, four oceans, new continents and perhaps thousands of new people. We prepared for this trip by saving money, researching the practical financial, health and emotional considerations, but one thing we hardly touched was our itinerary. We hardly knew what to expect and while we had an idea of our initial direction, many of you may remember the answer we gave last year when asked where we would go…everywhere. While our route hasn’t surprised us very much, there has been one thing that we hadn’t relied on, the kindness and incredible hospitality we’ve received. The best experiences of the last year are by far those with other people, generally people we don’t know that well that extend an invitation for a drink, dinner or a place to rest.

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Both Danny and I have written a lot about our couchsurfing experiences, and often these are the memories we hold- not the museum, ruins or places we’ve been. It’s true that travel is about people, for had it not been for a swiss couple in Honduras we never would have done La Moskitia. Had it not been for the other four on our salar de uyuni trip I would have thought the whole thing rather boring. Had it not been for the man we met hiking in Argentina and his invitation to stay with his family, the garden route would have been another beautiful coast not a place we’ll always fondly remember. In fact, had we not struck up various small talk conversations on buses, tours and even boats over the last year we would have missed out on getting to know some pretty incredible people who have given us memories that we’ll never forget. They’ve given us a home, a place to rest, a welcome into their lives, often not knowing much about us beyond our names and faces. Without knowing it these people have provided us so much more than a comfortable place to rest our heads, or good conversation. They’ve given us the comfort of being with a family again, the feeling of hanging out with old friends, and the sense of normalcy.

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No amount of preparation and planning can prepare a traveler for what its like to be away from home for a year. It might sound weird to those at home, but we miss the everyday routine and normalcy of home. It’s a strange bout of homesickness when you start to miss getting up for work everyday, but trust me after a year it starts to happen.

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So if you’re one of those people, and I believe many of you are, who we’ve met along the way, and who stay in touch through our blog: thank you, gracias, merci, danke for everything. For adding a bit of normalcy to our lives, for unknowingly relieving our homesickness and for making us feel welcome. There is no way we can express our appreciation for what you’ve done except to pass it forward and to say we couldn’t have done it without you.

Filed Under: Africa, Headline, Tanzania Tagged With: cultures, holiday, hospitality, people, tourism, travel

How do you measure a year?

March 17, 2010 By Jillian

525,600 minutes. How do you measure a year in a life?

Some people said we were crazy. Some people said we were awesome. Some people said we’d be back within 3 months, some people said we’d never return. “It’s my dream to do that” some people said, while others shook their head unable to understand. We just didn’t know what to think, and when we stepped into Mexico last year we were about as prepared as we could have been for a journey that’s impossible to prepare for…

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525,600 minutes. How do we describe a year on the road?

There’s the bad: countless nights in nondescript hotel rooms, countless hours in transit on an overcrowded, smelly, sweaty bus, countless times we’ve said no to a hotel tout or aggressive street vendor and the numerous times we have to ask a question to get the “real” answer. And there’s the good: countless heartwarming conversations with locals who welcome us into their homes, invite us for a drink or intercede on our behalf to make sure we get the real price. Countless times we’ve received a genuine smile and hello, been told to enjoy a country, been given a phone number should we need anything or been directed to the right location despite our awful map or poor command of the language. How can we sum up these experiences and tell you what a year on the road is like? It’s incredible, it’s awful, it’s amazing, it’s hard. It’s everything we thought it would be and nothing at all like we expected. We’ve learned that the world is a great big place, and to quote many travelers we meet, the world is “same, same, but different.”

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So after a year how do we feel?  Are we tired, happy, ready to come home or looking forward to pressing on?

We’re all those emotions and more. Ask us at any moment and you can get any one of a thousand answers. Most importantly though, we’re thankful. Thankful each morning that we’re able to travel and spend such a long time getting to know the rest of the world. Thankful that we’ve made it this far and appreciative of all the experiences- the good, the bad and the ugly, that this trip has given us. Thankful of the people we’ve met and the places we’ve been. Our mantra is the day we wake up and stop appreciating the world around us is the day we decide to go home. Today is not that day and I’m not sure when that day will be. Whenever it is though, we have no regrets. We’re happy that we took this chance, happy that we’ve done this trip, happy with the experiences we’ve had.

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525,600 minutes. How can you measure a year in a life?

Filed Under: Africa, Featured, Headline, Tanzania Tagged With: holiday, tourism, travel

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