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You are here: Home / Archives for Destinations / South America

Visiting Friends

October 9, 2009 By Jillian

We travel for the places, but the people are what make the places. You go somewhere and you meet certain people, have certain experiences and no matter how many times you go back to that same place, it will never feel the same again. Think about your travels, the people are the memories you have, not the actual places. It’s the same for us, no matter where we are its the people that make the best memories.

Last week we had a very unique opportunity to couchsurf with some travel buddies who stayed with us last year. In fact, they were the in Danny’s very first blog post. We did things that normal travelers don’t get to do like share in family meals and road trip to Oktoberfest, but we also got to hang out with our friends and have some down time. I’ll fully admit, without spending time with them Curitiba and Florianopolis would not have made our must-do list. Beyond not having to stay in a boring hotel or hostel (they all seem to blend together after a while, truly), its nice not to always have to introduce yourself and share your story. Sitting around the dinner table laughing at jokes translated into three languages, we really felt like we were in our own home back in our pre-travel life. I’m not going to lie, it made me miss that life a lot, but if we hadn’t chosen to do this trip we would never have meet these people or gone to these places.

Everyday, even outside of vacations and travel, you meet people and you don’t know who you’re going to connect with or even see again. As we like to say, we’re not traveling around the world, we’re just visiting new friends. 🙂

Filed Under: Brazil, South America Tagged With: couchsurfing, friends

Sorry, no vegetarians allowed

October 8, 2009 By Jillian

I know its practically blasphemous for me to say this, but listen up America, we have not conquered the buffet. Everything might be bigger in Texas, but Texas sized doesn’t hold a candle to Brazil. From the moment we got off the bus in Curitiba to the moment we left we seemed to be plied with delicious dish after delicious dish.

I hate buffets, but I’ve been known to bend the rules in places like Vegas, so when our friend told us about a local all-you-can eat place on our first afternoon in Curitiba, I went along with it for the cultural experience. And I saw the huge table of pastas, meats and every kind of savory dish you can imagine. It looked incredible and tasted even better. I gorged myself, drank some Cachaca and declared myself stuffed.

The rodizios and Churrasqueria in Brazil are incredible. Settled by a large number of Italians, the buffets are often piled high with delicious Italian specialties (risotto, gnocchi, pastas, etc…) as well as plates of high quality vegetables, fruits, and of course sushi. (Brazil is home to the second largest Japanese population outside of Japan!).  After the initial buffet, I was hooked, and decided to up the buffet scale a bit and head to a Churrasqueria.  Churrasquerias are brazilian bar-b-que places famous for their smoked and bar-b-qued meats which are carved tableside at an unending table side buffet of meat.  Definitely not the place for a vegetarian.

Meats of every cut, size and seasoning arrive at your table on a roasting spit, and are expertly carved onto your plate.    Just image, filet mignon, roast beef, sausages, steaks, veal, chicken and even roasted chicken hearts in a continuous carne-fest at your table.  They look and smell delicious, and although we have restaurants like this in the United States, this is above and beyond anything I’ve ever seen. It is completely overwhelming.  When you flip that card to green the meat arrives before your hand is back from the card and doesn’t stop until you flip it to red. And no matter what cut of meat it is, (usually we didn’t know) it is juicy and delicious. The meat was incredible, I’m usually not such a big red meat fan, but this was literally the most delicious steak I’ve ever tasted.  After 20 minutes I realized my eyes were bigger than my stomach and I had to put my fork down and walk away…back to the buffet of salad and fruit.  Will power is everything.

One things for sure, if you ever come to Brazil, plan to leave your diet at home.

Filed Under: Brazil, Food, South America Tagged With: restaurants

Brasil, Brazil

October 6, 2009 By Danny

Usually when we write a little summary post of a country we do so at the end when we’re already in a new county. Right now though, that wouldn’t seem quite right. Brasil is so different from where we’ve been that we really just need to share that now.

First off, they don’t speak Spanish here. Not since our first days in Mexico have we felt this lost when communicating with people and it has been very frustrating. We hear the Portuguese, respond back in Spanish, and everyone just looks at each other like they don’t know what happened. I have vowed that I will not be traveling like this in Africa…Swahili lessons here I come.

Constantly we get and give a thumbs up to show that we understood the Portuguese…initially we assumed this was just the international symbol for “you got it?” or something like that. Looks like it’s more the Brasilian sign for “we’re all good” because it is used all the time here.

When we first got to Brasil (they spell it with an ‘s’ not a ‘z’ so we’ll leave the ‘s’ in for now) we entered from Bolivia which is probably (not looking at economic statistics, just going by what I saw) the poorest country in all of South America. If ever we saw a case for not being land-locked I think this would be it. From the pobreza of Bolivia (with 0 coastline as compared to Brasil’s 7400km) we were shocked to see our first Brasilian city even had a skyline! When we entered the country, two brothers that had helped us said “Welcome back to civilization.” I didn’t realize how much I had missed that civilization for the prior few weeks in Bolivia.

It was here in that first city of Cuiaba that we first had our real taste of Portuguese. The accent in that region sounded more like a Swedish version of Spanish than it did a Portuguese accent. So strong was the Swedish that whenever someone opened their mouth I felt the need to point, say “Swedish Chef”, and walk away. Luckily the Swedish sounds went away with the countryside and now the accent sounds like a mix of Spanish, French, and Italian.

For us, the challenge of spending here has been just as great as the challenge of speaking. Brasil is fully a 1st world country and with the prices to go with it. The Metro in Rio costs almost to the penny what the metro in Washington, DC costs, and city buses are similar. The long distance buses are expensive and domestic airlines know this and price their flights just a touch higher. We actually flew from the Pantanal to Rio, it cost double what the bus would have cost but took an afternoon instead of 40 hours. At least the beer and wine is still affordable!

Bathrooms all have toilet paper and paying for the bathroom seems to be the exception rather than the rule. We’ve spotted water fountains in a variety of places (that means the water is treated) and our faces are stuffed with more food than we can handle EVERY time we go out to eat.

One negative though, my arms hurt. There are VW Beatles all over the place and every 2 minutes Jill puts her fist into my arm and says “Punchbuggy whatever, no punchbacks.” Luckily this has frustrated me immensely, disturbed my sleep, and I now hit her and say “Punchbuggy imaginary, no punchbacks.”

Filed Under: Brazil, South America Tagged With: language, summary

Why Rio Won

October 5, 2009 By Danny

Sorry Chicago, you guys should try for the WINTER Olympics…..leave the summer Olympics to the beaches and palm trees of Rio…one of the most stunning cities we have ever laid eyes on.

The biggest problem with Rio was that it is a City…and a city is a place where people live in order to go to work and go about their daily lives. We don’t work and our lives are far from normal…hence cities aren’t usually so enticing to us. In Panama City we saw the canal, in Bogota we hung out with Couchsurfers, and in Lima we took some time from our hectic travel schedule to get visas for Bolivia and Brazil. Here in Rio though, we found one of the most amazing cities in the world.

I think the best way to describe Rio is that it is what you would get if you bulldozed Miami and put New York City along the banks of Biscayne Bay. An eclectic mix beachgoers, business people, cross dressers and travelers, it is the first place I was able to wear shorts and not feel like someone had written the word tourist across my back. Nestled amongst beautiful bays, stunning beaches, and rainforest covered hills, Rio really is the closest thing we’ll ever have to the oxymoron of a city built in paradise.

And it was raining.

We had one day of nice weather and would have loved to hit the beach, but that day happened to be Yom Kippur so we were obliged to pass. The rest of the time we wandered downtown and through hilltop communities. We ate the street food (meat on a stick continues to be the best value) and even attempted a [free] museum in Portuguese. Really though, we spent three days wandering around.

We also managed to meet up with some local Couchsurfers who took us out for a wonderful night on the town. One didn’t get out of class until 10pm and the other had class even earlier the next morning, but that didn’t stop us from closing the place down and getting back to the hostel around 2am.

I would move here tomorrow if only they didn’t speak Portuguese. Sure, the weather right now isn’t so great…but it is spring here right now so its only fair.

Filed Under: Brazil, South America Tagged With: cities, holidays

Prodownhill (La Paz, Bolivia)

October 5, 2009 By Jillian

Only three months old, Prodownhill has certainly made a name for itself on the South American travelers circuit. Prodownhill came so highly recommended for the death road by several backpackers on their way north through Peru, we didn’t even consider booking the death road with another agency.

Suiting our group of 7 up for the day, the equipment was in excellent shape and clearly taken care of. From the protective moto-cross quality clothing, to the top-quality helmets and pads, it was clear Prodownhill had our safety in mind. Decked out in flash gear, our bikes were tuned and ready to go without a lot of fiddling around. Our guides were friendly and did a great job of keeping us together as a group while allowing people to go down the death road at their own speeds. Stopping the group every 10-15 minutes for a safety stop, our guides were constantly telling us about the next section of road and checking to make sure everyone was having a good time. The seven in our group ranged from an ironman competitor to someone who had never used a mountain biked before and I can say with 100% certainty that everyone felt safe and had a great time on the trip.

Taking lots of video and photos, which they gave us at the end on a CD, the entire Prodownhill staff was attentive, fun and professional. The bikes were in good condition and the protective gear they provided was so significantly more than any other tour operator we saw that we were almost embarrassed knowing that some of those people had paid almost double, for the same death road, what we did! Our experience with them was so incredible I would actually say the death road has been one of my favorite days in all of South America.

A LIST OF THINGS THAT WENT WRONG ON THE DEATH ROAD WITH PRODOWNHILL:

  • Nobody was killed or otherwise dismembered, deformed, or injured in any way.

  • We were the sexiest group of bikers out there, everyone else was jealous.

  • Prodownhill gave us so much food throughout the day that I never got hungry.

  • The brakes on all of the bikes worked.

  • Prodownhill kept the office open late and burned the DVD for us that evening.

  • We paid way less for the death road than probably everyone else out there.

  • I didn’t have to think or worry about anything.

  • Prodownhill helped us find a bus for later that evening.

  • I wasn’t able to buy a cool jersey, instead I was given a free t-shirt and DVD of all our photos and videos.

  • I only had one free beer to go with my free lunch.

  • Prodownhill had a movie for us to watch on the 3 hour ride back to La Paz.

  • On the bike I could go as fast or as slow as I wanted, totally up to me.

  • Prodownhill gave us a perfect day, for a perfect price. THANK YOU PRODOWNHILL

Filed Under: Bolivia, Cycle, Featured, Operators, Reviews Tagged With: mountain biking

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