Everyone knows never to get involved in a land war in Asia, but only slight less well known is this: never deny the offer of a beer from an Iranian when friendship is on the line!
Iran, more than any other country these days, fills the headlines as America’s number one threat. We are Americans and that should mean that Iran is our enemy. This is the country whose most recent news headline have revolved around such punishments as stoning and lashing. As we travel through the Soviet states our parents grew up with, it is easy to think of Iran as today’s threatening menace. Many of us don’t know what goes on inside, and are left wondering….and worrying.
Taking a day trip out from the Armenian capital of Yerevan we were on a bus heading to some ruins when another tourist asked us first if we spoke English and then confirmed we were all going to the same place. She, an Iranian English professor, was on holiday with another female friend who was an architect. Neither lady wore a headscarf. A man made up the trio, he was a dentist but didn’t speak much English.
The first of the sites we went to, the Garni temple, was a bit underwhelming and probably wasn’t worth the trip out from the city for us. It consisted of a single Hellenic temple and a few scattered ruins of the old baths. We toured site together, and then shared a taxi from the Garni Temple to the Geghard Monastery further up the road. (Much nicer than the Garni temple, best Monastery yet) As we were sitting and waiting for our final bus back to town, a cup was suddenly placed into my hand by the dentist. Next I knew, it was filled with beer. We had hardly said two words to one another, his English not being too much better than my Farsi, but it was a hot day and he aimed to quench my thirst and his own…not something he was permitted to do within his own country. I asked how to say thank you in Farsi and was disappointed to find out that the Iranians, like the Armenians, simply use the French ‘merci’ because it is easier. They saw my disappointment and proudly shared that the word ‘Bazaar’ is of Persian origin. As we sat on that bus riding back to town, passing a beer around the back and sharing some chips and popcorn, one thing was absolutely clear: These three people were no more capable of terrorism than me.
It was the start of this encounter though that I will remember the best. As we walked together down the street, we found ourselves exchanging the usual pleasantries. They said they were from Iran and upon hearing that I’m sure our eyes were as wide as theirs were when we answered with our home country. We told them how much we had wanted to visit Iran but that the visa process was simply too difficult and costly for us and that those few people we’ve known who have actually gone there had only good things to say…especially about the people. They blushed and thanked us for the kind words and said that everyone really is all the same and wants the same things. We agreed and we all expressed hope and expectations that the current divisions between our countries would not be long lasting. After a mere two minutes of conversation, they offered to personally sponsor a visa for us if we thought it would be helpful. (Don’t worry mom, we denied…but only because it wouldn’t have helped 🙂 )
With the rest of our time in Yerevan we visited the National History Museum as well as the Museum and Monument to the Armenian Genocide. With the help/force/urging/etc of the best Couchsurfing hosts in Yerevan we ate gobs of traditional food and loved every minute of it.
IF YOU GO: There are several day trips around Yerevan. We took public transportation to Garni Temple and from there shared a taxi to Gerhard Monastery. Guidebook times were way off, Yerevan to Garni took nearly an hour on the bus not 25 minutes. Taxi’s in Yerevan were relatively inexpensive, but the entire center is easily covered on foot. Don’t miss Botero’s fat soldier in the park between the Opera and Cascade. The season hadn’t opened yet for the symphony or opera while we were there, but tickets are extremely inexpensive and I would recommend checking them out if you’re interested in a night of culture.
Mom Tobias says
Hey there, Danny Boy – your story here reminds me a bit of “Boy on a Rock”; you were just destined to be a goodwill/peace ambassador! However, that being said, I am glad I am reading this AFTER you have assured me you are out of the “stans” and after you elected NOT to try to visit Iran. Does the name Sarah Shourd mean anything to you? 🙂
At any rate, I am glad you had a chance for a safe “cultural/pesonal” exchange with some Iranians as I would agree with your premise that most people are “good” and certainly we can’t assume that just because a person is from a particular country that they embrace the views represented to us by their country!
Danny says
@ Mom – Yes, it is the same kind of story as ‘Boy on a Rock.’ Naturally a bit different but just as enlightening nonetheless.
Mark Kennet says
It is always a mistake to confuse a country’s government with its people. Governments only loosely reflect their people’s attitudes, and then generally only in the way the government has treated them economically. Judging Iranians in general by Ahmedinejad is like judging Americans in general by George W. Bush or Israelis by Ariel Sharon.
That is not to say that one can share a beer with someone and become immediate trusted friends – there is a lot of cultural difference to overcome and hence, unmatched expectations from the two sides. The challenge is always to find the balance between openness and prudence.
Danny says
@ Mark – I couldn’t agree with you more. One thing we have found amazing on this trip is just how little faith most people have in their own ‘democracies’ as many people we meet generally assume there is NO connection between a people and its government. This is not always the case, but it is quite telling nonetheless. As an American I don’t generally don’t separate the two quite as quickly but hey, Ahmedinejad lost that last election didn’t he?
Mark Kennet says
Actually, I don’t think Ahmedinejad lost. While to the rest of the world he seems like an ignorant buffoon, he is apparently very good at playing to the masses in his own country. That is kind of my point – even though any country’s international standing is probably its most important objective in the long run, almost nobody votes on that basis, but rather on domestic, especially economic issues. A case in point is Hugo Chávez – the rest of the world views him as an ignorant buffoon, but he has delivered on at least some of his promises to Venezuela’s large majority of poor, and they support him unreservedly in spite of his international image and in spite of the fact that he has essentially ruined Venezuela’s economy.
In the long run, it is very much to be hoped that democracy has a better solution for this problem than any other system. Through better education and increasing awareness of the rest of the world, perhaps nations can stop electing idiots and figureheads. Realistically, that time is a long way off, though (the US hasn’t yet succeeded!), and meanwhile, we just need to recognize the nature of politics and separate it from individuals, who are exactly that – individuals and not ambassadors.
ponch says
Just catching up on blog posts I missed previously. I am clearly loving the Princess Bride reference!