There’s almost nothing more peaceful than Friday afternoons in a Islamic country. I look at this picture and I’m immediately transported back to the Islamic world. I hear the call to prayer ringing in my head and more than once we sat on a roof top in the evening listening as the mosques called their faithful to pray.
This is the Hamad el-Nil tomb in Omdurman (across the river from Khartoum). Each Friday evening a group of sufi followers gathers at the tomb to praise Allah in feverish prayer and praise. Group chanting drives followers into a zen like state where their movements reach an almost terrifying state of disconnect from their minds. It’s a very mysterious and interesting site to see, you can read about our experience in our Whirling Dervishes post, make sure to check out the video.
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IF YOU GO: It is best to go to Omdurman with locals. The souk is enormous and it’s easy to get lost. Many of the religious shrines and tombs are not open, despite what signs or your guidebook may say, but it’s worth a visit to Omdurman even without the “sites” as it will give you a better picture of what Sudanese life is really like.
The faithful gather for the Whirling Dervishes Friday evenings about an hour before sun down. Again, you’ll be more comfortable with a local who can translate and explain what’s going on to you. Women should in particular be careful at the ritual where a tight crowd can make it unclear what or whom is touching you… If you’re planning to go to Sudan your best bet is a transit visa, relatively easily obtained in either Egypt or Ethiopia with proof of onward travel. A transit visa is good for 14 days in “Northern” Sudan and will not allow access to either the South or West (Darfur). Check out our African Visa Guide for more detailed information.
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