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You are here: Home / Archives for Destinations / Central America / Panama

Rio Chiriqui

July 2, 2009 By Jillian

We made it to Boquete, Panama in time to kayak the next day with Boquete Outdoor Adventures–. Having emailed every rafting company we could find in Central America as we moved south, it was a relief to find one that actually offered whitewater kayaking trips. Even better that the rafting group we were supposed to go down the river with canceled so we had the trip all to ourselves.

Driving to the put in my stomach was in knots. If you remember the last time we went kayaking, I got thrashed so I was more than a bit nervous about hitting the river again. In fact, I was petrified. Karma though had a different plan for me. Navigating the entrance rapids without the hint of a flip, I turned around at the bottom only to see the wrong side of Danny’s boat. Rolling up Danny’s hand looked like it had been in a bar fight, only with a rock on the bottom of the river instead of a man named Bubba.

Hearts racing, we continued downstream through a series of long class III rapids. Danny’s boat, a magnet it seems for rocks, flipped again, and this time after several roll attempts he was pulled up by our guide. Bruised now from shoulder to hand after scraping along the bottom he was more disappointed than injured. Sometimes you just have one of those days on the river and when it starts its hard to shake it.

After portaging around a dam we came to the biggest rapids of the day. Everything always looks bigger when you are in the middle of it, but as we came over a rock I stared into a huge wave trough that seemed to swallow my boat. Somehow I kept myself right side up and turned around in time to see Danny clip the rock and flip. Spun around in the wave he took a decent beating before it spit him out. At this point Danny had seen more than he wanted of the river’s bottom having combat (in the rapid) rolled at least three or four times already. His shoulder and elbow were pretty battered and he had two small gashes on his hands. No pain, no glory right?

It was a bad day on the river for Danny but a great day on the river for me. And yet, making it through each rapid, instead of building my confidence, gripped me in fear for the next one. All afternoon I felt like I was waiting for the other shoe to drop, waiting to scrape along the bottom of the river. After the Rio Pescados it seems that I have developed a very real fear of whitewater kayaking, so much so that when I flip I am unable to roll back up, my mind won’t let my body remember what to do. Thankfully it didn’t happen this time, but I am still fearful of getting in a kayak again. It’s frustrating to say the least given how much I’ve enjoyed whitewater kayaking in the past. I only hope its a short term phobia that a few more times on the river can cure.

Filed Under: Central America, Panama Tagged With: fear, injuries, whitewater kayaking

On our way to Panama

June 30, 2009 By Danny

Up at 4:30 am to catch a 5:30 am bus from Quepos to San Isidro. If we missed the first bus, no getting to Panama in time to kayak the next day.

Costa Rica immigration was easy, we got our exit stamp – no fees – and continued on our way. Upon reaching Panamanian immigration we were accosted, truly that is the only word to describe it. One man grabbed my passport, put in a sticker and demanded $1. No explanation. The immigration official on the other side of the glass, who had Jillian’s passport merely nodded and told her she needed the same. Another ayudante (helper in spanish, but they generally are anything but) grabbed my hand and told me I needed to go to the tourism office. There we were provided tourists cards and asked for $5 each, the fee we had expected to pay, and were told that we did need to give this other man a dollar for the sticker in our passport. Pushed back out the door to immigration we stood in line waiting to get our passports stamped. Next up, Customs.

Lets keep in mind that we’d been up since 3:30 a.m (time change!) and hadn’t eaten.

Our first customs inspection of the trip. The bus pulled up and we all got our stuff out and brought it to a little room. While the others on the bus merely had to open their suitcases for a cursory check, we, the backpackers, had to empty our packs of their entire contents, open all of our small bags and cases and submit to a full inspection of our toiletries, dirty clothes and even medications. Ugh. I wanted to tell him that drugs move from the south to the USA, not the other way around. Why use a dog to search for drugs when you can go through a persons underwear…should have kept the really dirty stuff on top!? After making us declare our computer (my shoe inserts are more valuable) and asking us numerous times how much money we carried, he finally let us go. Oh the joys….TSA doesn’t even go through these lengths with backpacks…

Pulling our bags back to the bus we got more than a few sympathy looks from our fellow passengers and continued on our way.

Filed Under: Central America, Panama Tagged With: border crossing, customs, immigration

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